tcode

My T4

382 posts in this topic

Let's start with a full spec of the car:

S40-T4, manual, 1999 (B4194T)

- K&N very large open air filter

- Garrett GT3071R turbo charger with TiAL V-band exhaust housing

- A very large BOV

- Custom 3" downpipe, 3" rest of the exhaust pipes, two custom 3" free flow mufflers

- Custom tubular equal length runner exhaust manifold

- 38mm external wastegate

- Bonalume adjustable fuel pressure regulator (with fuel return line)

- Bosch 910 cc/min injectors

- custom Big FMIC with 2,5" piping

- 2.0 N/A intake&exhaust cams (from a B4204S engine)

- NGK-R copper spark plugs (2 degrees colder)

- Walbro 255lph intank fuel pump

- Walbro 255lph external fuel pump + swirl pot

- Perrin Electronic Boost Control Solenoid

- Boost gauge

- VEMS LCD information display

- VEMS Stand Alone EMS (WB, Launch Control, Flat Shift, Traction Control)

- AEM CDI TwinFire

- Wilwood Big Brake kit 6 piston calipers

- SS brakelines, ATE Super Blue Racing brake oil

- 2.0t manual gearbox

- ATB Quaife LSD

- Sachs ZF Performance 707 pressure plate

- 850R organic friction disc

- 850 single mass flywheel

- Short shifter

- 17" OZ Ultraleggera with Hankook RS2 215/40/17

- KW lowering suspension

- Polyurethane bushes (main front with antilift&extra castor)

- Performance Rear Anti Roll Bar

- H Brace

- HID's 4300K

- Eggcrate grill

- Black bezel headlights with black corners

That's more-less all (at least what I can remember Laughing)

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17921

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17922

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17923

More to come..

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dude ur one fast ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD crazy croatian lolz anyway the only way i can top that is if I get a damn jet engine...monster garage style. Very Happy

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Impressive powerlevels, yet affordable. Will be intresting to see which rods are in that engine when you finally decide for a swap.

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Yeah, I'm definitely interested to see those wonder rods too Very Happy.

Here are some pictures of the parts built in the car:

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17925

A large open cone K&N vs. BMC CDA element

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17926

TiAL exhaust housing has better flow and it's 30% lighter than original Garrett exhaust housing

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17927

It's cheap Chinese copy but works damn good

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17928

Custom 3" DP with V-band flange

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http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17929

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17930

Another very good and pretty cheap ($80 only!) Chinese copy

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17931

Bonalume adjustable fuel pressure regulator. It's great but very expensive!

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17932

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http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17933

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17934

Both cams were replaced with n/a at first, however ended up with intake n/a cam only. Best combination.

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17935

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17936

Additional external fuel pump and swirl pot should resolve fuel starvation on hard acceleration problem. All parts made/collected, will install in a next few days.

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how much did you shave of the flywheel to match the new thinner plate? and where about do you get the first pull when highering the clutch?

mine with no compensation for the thinner plate started to engage when I only pressed down about 15% of the travel of the pedal.

I rather want it to start engage at about 75% pressed down.

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Shaved 0,5mm for compensation. The clutch grabs at around 50% of the pedal traveling distance. Shaving another 0,1mm or 0,2mm should be probably even better.

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An external fuel pump and swirl pot installed Smile.

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17952

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=getfile&id=17953

edit: tested new fueling system today, everything is as it should be Smile. No more fuel starvation on hard acceleration no matter how low fuel level in tank is Wink.

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Its great to see some of my parts and some of my suggestions being used/implemented on your car Smile

Glad to see its working well for you.

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Andy P wrote on Mon, 15 June 2009 13:54

Its great to see some of my parts and some of my suggestions being used/implemented on your car Smile

Glad to see its working well for you.

Thanks man a lot!! I hope that we will see your S40 project back and in this topic soon Smile.

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Yea, hopefully very soon!

Although I'm thinking I might do ALL the work whilst taking pictures and write up - and then post them all in one go Smile

I'm hoping it'll be worthy of the "big projects" thread.... Wink

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Tested the limit of the hydro lifters on my engine. After short reving at 7200 rpm's two hydro valve lifters started to knock on idle for about 5 mins. After that period they settled back to normal. So, basically that means 7000 rpm should be a kind of safe limit.

Now, I spoke to Andy who suggested me to swap hydro lifters with mech ones. According to him it can be done on this head I currently have (a head with hydro lifters), keeping both head and cams.

Does anyone did this conversion with success?

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tcode wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 01:02

Now, I spoke to Andy who suggested me to swap hydro lifters with mech ones. According to him it can be done on this head I currently have (a head with hydro lifters), keeping both head and cams.

Does anyone did this conversion with success?

Yes it can be done... byt why?

16 lifters cost the same as a complete head of a N/A ph2. you will gain larger ports, larger valves hotter cams and not the least the cams are already adjusted and you don't have to spend half a day messuring and adjusting the gaps between cam and lifter.

just buy my aluminum retainers specially developed for the 6mm valves, they will fit Volvo 850 springs (or even your stock ph1 springs) which will allow 8000rpm or so. then fit an inner spring and you can rev 10000rpm or so Smile

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torpis wrote on Wed, 17 June 2009 11:27

Yes it can be done... byt why?

16 lifters cost the same as a complete head of a N/A ph2. you will gain larger ports, larger valves hotter cams and not the least the cams are already adjusted and you don't have to spend half a day messuring and adjusting the gaps between cam and lifter.

just buy my aluminum retainers specially developed for the 6mm valves, they will fit Volvo 850 springs (or even your stock ph1 springs) which will allow 8000rpm or so. then fit an inner spring and you can rev 10000rpm or so Smile

I already have 16 mech valve lifters, so most of them probably could be used - meaning don't need to buy all sixteen. Plus, I don't need to take off the head form the engine - meaning I don't need to pay for machine job of the head, I don't need to buy head gasket etc.

Basically, all I need is (boring job) measuring the gaps and buy a few non matching lifters.

Later, when I will be rebuilding the hole engine, will pay attention about the head too and probably do as you suggested Smile.

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Ah okey Smile then just buy a bunch of lashcaps and put the lifters through the lathe to ge the right gaps. do it very carefully as you don't want it to rattle too much.

but... if haveing the cams out needing to adjust the gap you could aswell regrind them too Wink hihi

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Tropis,

if I buy n/a ph2 head, do I have to change valves, aren't valves for a turbo engines different (filled with some liquid for extra cooling)?

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they are the same from what i know. most of the cooling of the valve is through the disk it self when the valve is closed. We usually cut new fresh surfaces on the valve seat useing a Mira tool to get a good seal and good heat transfer.

http://www.miratool.ch/products/bilder/vg91.jpg

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hey tcode and torpis

do you guys happen to have the ECU wire diagrams and color chart etc? I have bought a AEM FIC (fuel ignition and timing controller) and need to intercept a bunch of ECU wires including the injector wires, MAP/MAF, o2 wires and bunch more. Can any of you high performance Gods help me? Very Happy

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tcode wrote on Wed, 24 June 2009 03:05

Here you go.

wow alright first off thanks man but i am no electrician and it seems everything in here is coded?? Where are injector cables? etc? Confused

I am totally confused. lol

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