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JGF

SUM Module Codes / Chassis Setting Maintaince Required

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Hi folks I see numerous posts on this topic but not many that had a successful (or clear) resolution.

2004 V70R 86,000 miles: "Chassis Setting Maintenance Required" message appears, no prior messages.

From repair report dealer diagnosed as follows:

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Tech traced code (SUM 0081, 0127, 0117, 0244) Tech followed diag chart and updated the SUM MODULE to start. Road tested and codes returned. Tech contacted Volvo Tech support for assistance. Tech fault traced further and found the SUM has water damage. Recommends replacing the SUM to start, not sure if SUM being shorted out caused any other damage. Estimated cost $820.

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Questions as follows:

Where is the SUM MODULE located?

What does each of the codes mean?

I expect that this computer is buried some where far away from water, is water damage common?

Is replacing the SUM MODULE a good first step? I assume an $820 electronic part repair is not returnable if this does not solve the problem.

Should I expect more faults or should this fix the problem?

Any other approaches or information welcomed.

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Where is the SUM MODULE located?

Have a look at page 8 of this PDF file

You'll see that the SUM is located on the drivers side (LHD) near the transmission tunnel - under the console/carpet.

Water damage could be possible if there is/was a leak or water ingress of some sort (flood, carpets steam cleaned)

Starting from the basics, check your battery is in good condition and the terminals are sound

batteries that are on their way-out can cause a few electronic issues.

On the codes, some of the others can chime in here...

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***********************************************************************

Tech traced code (SUM 0081, 0127, 0117, 0244) Tech followed diag chart and updated the SUM MODULE to start. Road tested and codes returned. Tech contacted Volvo Tech support for assistance. Tech fault traced further and found the SUM has water damage. Recommends replacing the SUM to start, not sure if SUM being shorted out caused any other damage. Estimated cost $820.

************************************************************************

Questions as follows:

Where is the SUM MODULE located? Drivers side footwell, on right side, underneath radio/climate unit.

What does each of the codes mean? 0244 - Control module - internal fault. Fault tracing points directly to a hardware/software issue.

0117 L/F solenoid - current to high.

0127 R/F solenoid - current to high. Both of these codes are stored when the ignition is switched on. If water

damage is present a

short could be the cause. 0117 is stored in the same manner.

0081 - Supply sensor, signal too low. This DTC is stored because of a power supply issue to either/or the

acceleration and

position sensors.All the sensors have a common power supply from the SUM.

I expect that this computer is buried some where far away from water, is water damage common? This is something you need to ask questions about. Water ingress here is typically not a problem unless something else is leaking such as heater core, clogged A/C drain, improperly installed windshield.

Is replacing the SUM MODULE a good first step? I assume an $820 electronic part repair is not returnable if this does not solve the problem. Probably a good first step, and yes, not returnable.

Should I expect more faults or should this fix the problem? That's a crystal ball kind of question ;)

Any other approaches or information welcomed.

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Not sure here but I think a used SUM module from the same year car should work and save you hundreds of dollars

You may need it to be reloaded/initialized at the dealer but still... you should be able to get one from Erie for 50 bucks or so.

www.erievovo.com

If you want me to I can find out if a used one will work

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Guys -- what you have provided is exceptionally useful information. Thank you.

JRL -- it would be great if you could find out if a used SUM module will work as a replacement. Am thinking it could be necessary pending diagnosis up at Edmonton Volvo.

With our 'R', I have been thinking about the comments re: water incursion near the SUM module. No carpet cleaning has taken place and no spills either.

However, I noted the display message disappeared and the chassis control settings returned to normal as soon as the spray began hitting the front wheel wells when the car was put through the touchless wash. The display message and default setting then came back but only after things had dried out. Happens each time. And the display change is a solid one-time switch-over, not something that looks like a short or a loose connection (e.g., flicking on and off, or back and forth).

Also, regardless of how long the "shut-off" period has been (e.g., sitting overnight, or just for a minute or two), the display and chassis control settings are absolutely "normal" at startup, every time. The display (and twiddling the display control) works normally and shows the average fuel mileage and speed are still being calculated in the background (accurately, so it appears).

The display message and default single chassis control setting appear only when and as soon as the vehicle is moved, following startup. That sequence happens every time, no exceptions.

When the car is idling following startup but has not been moved, bouncing up and down at each corner, or from side to side, does not trigger the problem. Neither does changing the throttle setting (e.g., "blipping" the gas pedal), or slipping the car into gear (but not moving the vehicle). Neither does setting or releasing the e-brake. The 'R' has to roll for at least a few inches (either forward or back) before the message comes up and the "default" setting occurs.

So, it is curious that the observed symptoms seem to disappear when something gets wet, rather than the other way around.

Cheers / Blueleezard

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PROBLEM Solved!!! DON'T Replace the SUM until you read this. Particularly the last poster who relates error coded to wet wheel wells.

Thank you to the first responder to my original post with the "where is the SUM" answered I did the following.

Removed/inspected/reinstalled SUM computer from driver’s foot well. Lower corner showed corrosion. Opened and inspected computer board and connections no apparent water damage or corrosion inside. Reinstalled. Error message remained.

Removed each wheel, traced strut control wires. Front wheel electronic connector wires all go from strut housing into engine compartment up to top of engine compartment near firewall then connect using internally flared, gasketed connectors. (Not likely as source of water ingress).

Front shock connectors were fine but I did find passenger side front wheel position sensor wire was frayed as it made the turn from strut up to firewall. Apparently it rubbed the frame rail or something else.

Repaired by disconnecting connector at firewall and pulling down into wheel well to work on. Removed frayed portion of wires by clipping just enough to get back to good wire (2 of 3 were bad). Installed electrical connectors inline with good wire and double taping to seal.

Thank you those that helped me get started on this fix.

Reinstalled wire loom so as to not contact anything.

Started car, no more error codes, 4C suspension working as designed.

Dealer wanted to start with an $800 computer which clearly wouldn't have solved the problem not sure where they would have gone from there! $2,000 of new shocks?

My cost 1 hour, 25 cents worth of connectors and tape.

*********************************Moral of this story**************************

Don't be affraid to poke around your wires.

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Diagnostic chart appears to start with the techs plugging to computer instead of visual connection check. If a circuit doesn’t exist it surely doesn't read very well. Obviously this was a low risk event for the computer diagnostics because I assume that some "test to ground" or "signal tests" to make sure the wires are even there would be the first routine in the computer loop. In a 90,000 mile car that has seen winters, snow drifts, all manners of salt and sand and ultimately has wires attached with things that turn and move near by I would think that a physical wire/connection check would have been in the diagnostic flow chart.

Rear connectors are harder to get to, they install up over rear subframe and you need smaller hands then I and probably easier to access if car is on a lift, fortunately they were not my problem.

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Hey r82439 -- thanks for your update -- a great report. I'll pursue this before any other actions are taken.

Best wishes / Blueleezard

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