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About NWBen

  • Rank
    Fairly R
  • Birthday 02/25/1986

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  • My Cars
    2003 S40
  • Occupation
    Software Sales

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  • Location
    Corvallis, Oregon

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  1. I am sure if this exact topic has been discussed before, but I wasn’t able to find a thread where it was discussed, so please forgive me if this is a repeat of something somewhere. I used Mobil 3309 the last time I changed my transmission fluid. Now that I am ready to change my fluid again, I discovered that the distributor that I got my fluid from last time changed from being an Exxon Mobil distributor to a Chevron distributor. Now I am evaluating all of my fluid options and I have some questions. I have been under the impression that the transmission fluid for our AW 55-50 transmission is supposed to conform to the JWS 3309 or perhaps the T-IV specification, but is that correct and what exactly does that mean? On the back of the 3309 bottle it says that for Porsche it meets specification JWS 3309/Type T-IV but for Volvo it doesn’t list any specifications. It just says all 5 speed transmissions. Any ATF that I have seen does not list JWS 3309 or T-IV in relation to Volvo but they are sometimes listed in relation to other vehicle makes. The Valvoline Multi-vehicle ATF lists T-IV but not 3309 and the Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle just says Volvo (all specifications), which I find highly suspect. I also remember someone claiming that the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF Multi-vehicle formula supposedly met superseding specifications but it does not list either JWS 3309 or T-IV. Another thing that I noticed was that the Royal Purple, contrary to my memory, meets T-IV and JWS 3309 specification. I would love to use RP but at about $15 a bottle I am going to pass on that this time. My question is, can I use any fluid that lists JWS 3309 or T-IV? Also, I what are your recommendations? Should I pick up a case of the Aisin ATF from IPD the next time I am in Portland or can I use something that I can pick up from my local auto parts store?
  2. After looking at some pictures online it looks like there is a grease hole in the back of the Moog end link that could alow contamination into the joint. Especially in Oregon, where it rains more often than not, that probably isn't a good thing. I think I will go with the Proforged. I just wish I could get my Amazon Prime free two day shipping.
  3. Ok I know this is anal but I have to ask because I over think every decision like this. The Moog ones state that they are greasable. I assume they mean it has a grease nipple or something. That sounds like something I want but I don't see myself actually buying a grease gun and grease for just that. The Proforged end links don't seem to be greasable but they look like they are painted, possibly higher quality and have a crazy long warranty. So which would be the best?
  4. I can’t seem to find these Moog rear sway bar end links. It looks like IPD has some although I can’t tell what brand they are. They are just listed as aftermarket. They are good on their good, better, best scale. Anyone have a link for a recommended pair?
  5. I ordered the Ruville tensioner from IPD and got another INA tensioner. I checked with them and they said they INA is the one they have listed as the OE brand. I was a little annoyed but I believe that the INA is actually the correct one. I replaced it and it did absolutely nothing to fix the chattering problem. I really only had the one idea and it didn’t work. It seems like I just have to learn to live with it...
  6. Well if there is one thing we can all agree on, it’s that everyone likes a tight rear (especially if you are going to get a hand full) But in all seriousness it already seems to already have a tight rear. I have the UR rear strut bar, and I noticed a huge difference in the cornering after installing it. I was really surprised because multiple times I have heard people say that you will notice a much bigger difference from the front strut bar. Maybe it has something to do with the getting the rear strut bar first or because not many people have the rear bar but I noticed a much bigger difference in the cornering after installing the rear bar. I guess I kind of feel like the front of the car is the looser than the rear. I feel like the front could be tightened up and still maintain the understeer. I guess it is a moot point however because the only option available is the rear sway bar from UR. Those Meyle HD end links for the front are more robust but they wouldn’t make a difference in the handling would they?
  7. I have a 2003 S40. I read a post that said there are thicker front and rear sway bars for the X40s, but the only one I have found is the rear sway bar from Ultra Racing. I am planning on geting the UR sway bar as a late birthday present to myself but I wanted to understand one thing first. My question is, why is it so common to see only rear sway bar upgrade options. This is the opposite from the strut tower bar in which it is common to see only the front option and not the rear. I understand that you want to maintain the understeer but it seems like, because most of the weight is over the front wheels, only upgrading the rear sway bar wouldn’t do much. Am I missing something? Also, if anyone knows of a front and rear sway bar combo let me know.
  8. Just to be clear the MoToTec intake is not a CAI, but it does have a heatshield. EuroSport Tuning is in Canada, and they are not always the fastest at shipping, but it is totally worth it, IMO. I don’t know if there are any US companies that carry it. You can check it out here http://www.eurosporttuning.com/autoparts/accessories/performance/make/Volvo/model/S40/year/2003/submodel/1.9T/engine/FWD/?engine_part=Intake. They have a dry filter and an oil filter. The flow rate of the oil filter is better, and the blue color is fantastic. It looks amazing paired with blue silicone do88 hoses. It isn’t nearly as loud as an intake on an NA engine because the turbo tones down the sound considerably. I also got an Aero Exhaust Aeroturbine AT2540i muffler. Now that is loud, but the sound is great. It is low and throaty. I also had the resonator eliminated and had the flex pipe replaced. The stock flex piece narrows down to something stupid like 1.75”. It is the bottleneck of the exhaust system. I chose to keep both the cats because I wanted to keep it street legal, and I figured that they would tone it down to an acceptable level, even with the resonator removed. I love the exhaust sound now. Once it warms up it actually quiets down a bit. EuroSport Tuning has a an exhaust system that looks fantastic in the pictures, but it wouldn’t flow as well, and it is significantly more that I paid for mine, even including installation, removal of the resonator and upgrading the flex piece.
  9. INA tensioner looks exactly tha same. I think it's a T60, no? Anyway, I guess I'll just ordered the Ruville from IPD. I didn't change the belt. It was still in good condition so I didn't feel it was necessary.
  10. So is INA maybe not a good brand? IPD lists Ruville as OE so I’m wondering if I should go with that. How sensitive are these tensioners? Is it possible that I wore out the spring simply by cranking it all the way too many times? I wasn’t playing with it or anything, but I did move it through its whole range of motion… I don't know, 3 times.
  11. Well I know about thermal expansion. I was just thinking that it seems very sensitive to slight temperature differences. If the weather were a little bit warmer it might not happen at all. The noise goes away before the gauge moves.
  12. It is completely on the tensioner. In fact, it's smack in the middle. I find it strange how closely related to the temperature it is. When it is not as cold outside, it goes away much quicker.
  13. As always, TEKAY has posted some fantastic pictures. Back in September, I bought the pulley, a corded, electric impact wrench rated for 220 ft. lb. of torque, a 30mm socket and a T60 bit. When I first tried to remove the 30mm nut, it didn’t budge. I didn’t try for too long, because I live in an apartment complex and using impact tools is… frowned upon. In October, I made a trip over to my parents’ house and tried it again. Again, nothing happened the first time. I hit it up with some WD-40, let it sit for a while and tried it again. It finally broke loose after a few seconds of hitting it with the impact wrench. I suspect that my local mechanic shop put the nut on way too tight when they serviced my timing belt. I had to take my car back to them to replace the bolts from thermostat housing so that I wouldn’t strip them out. After they stripped them out trying to remove them, they had to mangle the heads of them to get them out. They even over tightened the covers over the spark plugs. They tried to deny that they had over torqued anything, but I will be going somewhere else the next time I need anything done. Anyway, I noticed a huge difference when I turned the key. The RPMs spiked way higher just starting the engine. There used to be considerable lag when pressing the gas pedal, and that is now a thing of the past. I can’t say for sure if it builds boost any quicker, but I have to assume that since the engine revs faster that it has to make a difference. I have had a problem however. The tensioner started chattering after I replaced the pulley. I assumed that it just went bad, so I replaced it with an INA brand tensioner from eeuroparts. It was a ridiculously simple service, and I thought that it fixed the problem, but I noticed, especially when the weather got colder, that it still rattles until it starts to warm up. From a stop, the tensioner makes a terrible rattling noise when I step on the gas until I get moving. It goes away after a minute or two, but it makes my car sound like a beater. I don’t know if it’s related to the sound but I did notice that the pulley seems to be very, very slightly smaller than the original. The only reason I can tell is because the serpentine belt now runs right in front of the T60 hole in the tensioner. This is because that the tensioner rotates a tiny bit more with this pulley before it stops. I have to finagle the bit around to get it into the hole, and it wasn’t like that with the original pulley. Is it possible that this is just a bad tensioner or what? Does anyone have any ideas?
  14. I ran across this article from Popular Mechanics and I thought it was pretty interesting. I don’t know if I actually believe this so I thought I would post it here for discussion. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a19086/warming-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/
  15. Sorry it took so long to get to this. I did get it installed, and I am really happy with it. Evolv, I would highly recommend picking one of these up if you need to replace your stock hose. They are not only smoother but way cheaper than the stock hose. The PTC element isn’t hard to deal with if you know what to do. TEKAY and 1clean00 gave me some advice. I popped the clamp holding the PTC element in and was able to remove the old tube. I cut a slit in the hose to remove the PTC element. I used a Dremel to grind down the lip. You will need to grind the lip off completely, because it won’t fit otherwise. I wasted quite a bit of time trying to fit the PTC element in with some of the lip intact. It fits tight enough that the lip is not needed anyway. Even when it was completely inserted, my PTC element did not fit like in TEKAY’s picture. My PTC element was recessed and did not protrude into the main part of the hose, so the lip would have been useless. I have the MoToTec intake and I was still able to use this hose. It took a bit of work and an extra hand, but that may have been because I had the intake completely removed and just eyeballed it and then tightened it onto the turbo so it didn’t line up exactly. It wasn’t exactly easy, but I feel like if I had to do it again it would be a much smoother process. I have much less skill and experience than most of the members here so if I can do it than I am sure anyone can.