Shredder

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About Shredder

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    Seriously R

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  1. Do you think the issue is bearing quality? Or bracket design/location? The passenger side axle I have installed right now is from "Sur-Track" and barely a year old. I'm thinking in my case, when I hit that frost heave, the oil pan and engine moved a good amount and torqued the hell out of the bracket which in turn torqued the hell out of the bearing. I'll see if there is any visible damage when I replace it. I'm debating giving Raxles a try, heard good things.
  2. Looks awesome man! Hows the sound?
  3. Looking awesome Teekay! This evening I finally had some free time and figured out the source of a horrible whining coming from the passenger side of my 2004 V40. Had three mechanics tell me they couldn't hear anything and had one insinuate that I was wasting his time.... So this is a huge relief and I can't wait to show the guy this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCM4kEzO8uc
  4. Theres a good thread over on volvoforums uk in the s/v40 section. Heres my post from there. Managed to get a successful seal using a Motive power bleeder drilled into the cap. Sealed inside of cap using the cut donut method combined with Sikaflex construction sealant, its what I had laying around. Sealed under the donut with sealant and around the lip in the cap. Once i put the cap on I also smeared the sealant around the outside of the reservoir on the portion of the threads where the is a gap, there are 3 sections and it seems like the air always leaks out of one of them. I didnt wait for it to dry just left it smeared while I bled the brakes. I pressurized to 7psi and the flow at each caliper was strong. I ran a LOT of fresh brake fluid through since my brakes were garbage even though I had all new hardware except hoses. After two drive/bleed cycles my brakes are GREAT! Not as firm as a 2005 Acura MDX I drove recently but their performance when braking hard is the best I can remember. Very confident braking heavily and repeatedly at highway speeds and I have poor snow tires on. Really pleased that I finally got this to work... Recently had car at the mechanic to look at brakes and all he had for me was pretty much "yeah your pedal feels a little soft and has some extra travel but I can't find anything wrong..." Not sure why he didn't try bleeding... I literally doubled my braking power/ability by pressure bleeding. Really pumped with the results! Stainless steel hoses next perhaps
  5. After looking around I think ill just make a cap out of metal and some threaded hooks with wingnuts
  6. What part number is that? 1100?
  7. Has anyone had any success bleeding their x40 using the pressure tank attached to master cylinder cap method? I have a motive pressure bleed kit and I drilled through a spare cylinder cap. Only problem is, when I try to pressurize the system, the air immediately leaks out... Its hard to tell but it appears to be leaking out around the oring connection between the plastic container with fluid in it and the actual metal cylinder. I have successfully bled other cars, including two volvos, using this method. Any ideas?
  8. So it appears as though my tires were causing the pulling..... They're Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice's that look perfectly fine but are over 8 years old. I'm guessing the belt(s) are damaged on one of both of the tires on the right sides (they're directional). I came to this conclusion earlier when I put my alloys w/newer tires on.... Literally like driving a different car.... Crazy
  9. Yep, totally forgot to mention that. I had a shop do them about 16 months ago.... They dropped the subframe to do it and charged a lot. About 12 months after they did bushings I noticed an occasional clunking coming from front right. Upon inspection I found that the bracket which retains the bushing and slides into the subframe had snapped....... Didn't even bother with the shop since it had been a year and I wasn't paying for the subframe to be dropped again. I replaced bushing/bracket myself without dropping subframe. It was tough but hasn't popped out or broken yet. Now that I think about it, when I replaced the right bushing the left side was fully tightened down. I actually remember using a pry bar to hold the swaybar down while I tightened the new bracket. Is it possible that I tensioned the sway bar asymmetrically and that is causing issues?
  10. Can anyone explain why various sources say that this bracket must be replaced along with the engine mount #30611474? For example: EEuro says "Mount bracket # 30611471 must also be replaced with this mount." I have a 2004 V40 with 136k miles and I have replaced the mount once but not the bracket... Does it warp or distort over time? Currently having issues with vibration in cabin and the front right of car just doesn't feel right. I do around 500 miles a week (a lot of highways, but lately ive been driving around on a frozen bumpy construction site) and I am very picky about how my vehicles feel. I notice immediately when things are off. Right now the car is perfectly aligned but it only stays straight on absolutely perfect flat highways or long stretches of road. On even moderately crowned roads the drifting/pulling is incredibly annoying. I've driven other cars on the same roads and the issue is unique to my V40. Also, friends have driven my car and confirmed the issue. I'm experiencing every one of the following symptoms mentioned on FCP... Engine Mount Failure Symptoms: Engine vibration (bad in mornings, especially when cold, gets worse when parked on inclines or declines) Drivetrain vibration (I occasionally hear some unnatural noises coming from front right if I listen very closely while driving, this started recently since I've been doing a lot of driving over bumpy frozen roads and parking at weird angles on a construction site) Uneven engine surface Engine rock during gear changes (there seems to be more movement than there used to be) Engine rock during braking (this is minimal but definitely different from before) Also, my car pulls to the right more than it should, or used to. I'm convinced the mount must be at fault for the following reasons.. Alignment done January 15th using hunter alignment system, it is spot on. The car pulled before I brought it in, and it was already nearly spot on terms of alignment. Required a few tiny turns of wrench. I spoke with and watched the owner/operator of the shop work and he knows his stuff in terms of alignments, been in business 30 years. That being said, even though the alignment is good, the car still pulls/wanders Tires are fine, I have 3 sets of wheels and 3 sets of tires and symptoms are same with all three, although slightly less annoying with 17 inch wheels that are wider than the stock 15 inch. I am currently using 15 inch steels with good year ultra grips with 35 psi all around. I've tried swapping tires front to back (they're directional) no change. Nearly every front end component is relatively new (less than 2 years old) Newer parts include: struts (bilstein), springs, all strut parts, axles, inner and outer tie rods, control arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, brakes, all engine mounts, subframe bushings, and probably a few things im forgetting. I've recently gone through and looked for obvious issues in front right area (torn boots, broken bushings, bad joints, etc) and haven't been able to find any. The only thing I noticed was the front right spring looked like it was pretty close to the inside of wheel well. I haven't heard any rubbing so probably no issue. Also, it does sort of look like the engine sits a little lower on the passenger side when looking in the engine bay. I don't look forward to spending around $200 on mount and bracket but is there really much else I can do? I spend a ton of time in my car and really like it but this issue is bothering me. Anyone have a similar experience or have any tips in terms of what to check?
  11. Installed front and rear wind deflectors on the V40. Purchased off UK Ebay. Brand is Heko. I am very impressed with the quality and fitment considering they're a lot cheaper than weathertech even with the added overseas shipping cost. They even came with these nifty metal clips that get sandwiched in between window and deflector, very cool and effective once you dial them in. Also decided to fiddle around some more with my Prosport mechanical boost gauge and finally have it set up the way I want. White during the day (when headlights are off) and then when I turn the headlights on the color changes to amber... I feel like an idiot but the reason I couldn't get them to work right before was because I wasn't turning the car all the way on, I was just turning the key as far as possible without starting car, and was perplexed as to why the color on the gauge wasn't changing when it should. Seems as though their is a specific voltage or signal that needs to be detected in order to get the proper change.
  12. Finally got around to sanding/repainting my bumper where necessary, had two really bad spots with deep gouges. Also installed brand new headlight lens from URO on my black bezels... Front end is finally looking fresh
  13. Is this what you're referring to? http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Used it on my last change. Price seems to change daily on Amazon. I ordered 3 units back when it was at $15.. Could've sworn I looked at it yesterday and it was in the low 17s now its back up to 18.20. Still cheaper than everywhere else I've looked.
  14. For what its worth I've used both pentosin super dot 4 and ate200 and noticed absolutely zero difference between the two in terms of performance.
  15. Did you notice much of a difference with the stainless hoses?