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1clean00 last won the day on April 28 2016

1clean00 had the most liked content!

About 1clean00

  • Rank
    Addicted to R
  • Birthday 01/16/1984

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  • My Cars
    01' S60 T5, 00' V40 2.0T

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    Atlanta, GA
  • Interests
    aka 1clean01, aka LoseR99' (volvospeed)

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  1. Sounds like they reused the drain plug washer or are missing one. If you can get under the car and wipe the oil off the sump nut, check that you see a copper washer between the pan and the drain plug. Could also be turbo oil return line just based on the location of the oil.
  2. Is there any rhyme or reason to the codes? Cold start vs. hot restart? Morning, daytime, night, etc. Difficulty cranking at all? If it is totally random i'd look at the wiring and connectors more carefully and make sure that you're making good connections. If you can reset codes with your scantool do so and see if they come back. I would try to clean the MAF also and reset codes.
  3. oh, and if you order the extra castor front control arm rear bushes they show yellow on the site but when they come they are black poly and match the hardness of the whiteline front lca bushings.
  4. Boom, they're all in the states, http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/products/mitsubishi_mirage_2001 also check the search for the 40, that's how you'll find the sway bar bushings. The others are listed under 01 Mirage, and 95-96 Evolution. They ship fast as well and don't have crackhead prices.
  5. The intercooler piping will help with response, so will replacing any vac/boost reference lines with silicone hose. The D088 intake pipe and intercooler piping kit work great on the 2000. Check them out on eeuroparts.com, typically they have discount codes that will drill down the price on the kits.
  6. well, change of plans. I decided to keep the 40 as a daily driver so i can work on more T5 projects. That being said, scrap what i mentioned earlier about repairing this thing on the cheap. I ended up buying superpro sway bar bushings, 19mm, whiteline front lower control arm bushings (front and rear), and poly steering rack mounts from Superpro. I also installed new ball joints, tie rod ends, and axle seals. Just got the last of the bushings yesterday and pressed them in the arms this morning so it's all ready to go back together. If anyone is interested in these bushings i got them from a U.S. company and they were delivered within 3-5 days of ordering, i can provide a link and part numbers.
  7. that being said, i'll likely replace just the bushings on the front bar, new wheel bearings going in, and new ball joints. Get it aligned and call it quits. Only other thing the 40 really needs is a new cat, which i will likely first gut mine and throw a spacer on the rear O2 and see how that works. If it runs like crap i'll get a direct fit magnaflow so it stays carb legal and the next person can pass inspection.
  8. well, chances are i'll be likely selling the V40 in the next few months since i just bought a new Mazda CX5 for my girl. I'll probably just daily the 40 and park the S60 until i figure out what it is i'm gonna do. Possibly consolidate the two cars and get something newer. Would love to find an M66 VR
  9. Figured it out. Here are part numbers for anyone with a 2000MY wondering about sway bars. found these on volvopartswebstore.com 17mm front bar 30884517 $119.61 19mm front bar 30864691 $111.25
  10. Replacing axle seals and wheel bearings, decided i'm going to do sway bar bushings while everything is apart. Having trouble locking down the right size info on the bar on my 2000. Everything i've seen points to it being a 17mm bar, but if i search 01+ i see 19mm bar for the front. Anyone know if an 01+ front sway bar will fit a 2000?
  11. meh, the 40 is my go-kart. If I want to enjoy a real turbo car I get in my T5.
  12. Did you simply replace the coil springs and struts or did you replace the rest of the hardware also? When i converted mine from 00' to 01' front suspension i replaced every bit of hardware and installed the completed assembly. Strut, spring seat (rubber), spring, bellow, bump stop, isolator(rubber), spring seat (metal), bearing plate (plastic), top mount. Sounds like you may have the spring seat oriented improperly. Shop manual says to line up the hole on the outside of the spring seat with the outside hole on the strut assembly.
  13. If you've replaced it 3x and it still does the same thing it isn't the tensioner. Sounds more like an exhaust leak to me. Once you said it sounded like a "beater" i imagine it's valve ticking that you're hearing. Torque down the exhaust manifold nuts and report back. Would also explain why it goes away as things heat up.
  14. welcome back!
  15. There isn't enough demand for Kristian at Snaab to make an intake tube. The DO88 one works well enough and isn't priced to badly. You can free up the intake all you want but the restriction is still the oh yeah! ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD mitsubishi turbo.