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Everything posted by TEEKAY

  1. https://web.archive.org/web/20141223124745/http://www.30forty50.com/forum/topic/16121-diy-guides/
  2. Thought KW had a 2001+ kit now that used the ph2 bits?
  3. I use the DashCommand app with iOS so I can't comment on the dials and such for Torque. It could clear by itself after some use. I usually use Vida/Dice to clear the troublesome codes. Even if I clear misfire codes with DashCommand it takes some number of drive cycles to clear.
  4. You have the vida codes? How far / fast are you going on that ride when it happens at the same spot? The ABS light doesn't come on until ~35-40mph and 15-30 seconds of that speed when you have a bad speed sensor and it's finally out of a percentage range compared to the other corners. No ABS light right?
  5. Black tube with channels in it sounds like the axle? Try and score a clip of the sound if you can. There is a transmission mount on the left side under the airbox behind the battery. Have the endlinks been done recently?
  6. Hey folks, I've cross posted this on a few boards, no one has jumped on either of the threads with direct knowledge... hunting for info. Replaced the steering lock assembly inner bits and in the process have found an extra part. It looks like a detent for something related to the ignition but I can't find where it goes. Has anyone played with the lock cylinder / steering assembly and is familiar with this bit? Super worried it'll come back to bite me like this GM issue but I have been through mine and the spare a few times and can't see where it would go. Fell out while I was tapping in the pins for the steering lock cover. Other board posts below... similar content : https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s40-11/steering-lock-assembly-reassembled-extra-part-92919/ http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=269046
  7. Could this have been any part of the clock spring? I didn't remove the wheel but definitely was tapping on things pretty hard. Do the turn signals/wiper selectors have anything like this?
  8. damn, sorry
  9. Is that your vid? I'm dealing with the same stuff right now. Hitting a yard tomorrow to grab a few bits. Pulling the ignition switch right now to start. If I angle it this way it'll start but turning off, you don't get that final "last click". Gonna grab a few switches and that inner arm from the lock assembly.
  10. I'm not sure what you are referring to by the double spacing.
  11. Top mounts aren't that bad. You'll need spring compressors. Sway bar bushings are rough and rougher depending on your approach. The sure way to do the sway bar bushings is to lower the subframe. There is a good UK boards post on this. I am a glutton for pain and got them with super tiny ratchet and socket. The problem is you have to clear the hump of the bracket with the socket and there isn't much space. If there is any trick it's rotating the steering wheel to get the tie rods out of the way a little more. Both are time consuming, but not difficult. I think I had a $600 estimate for the sway bar bushings a few years ago. The parts are cheap. If you get OEM strut mounts they'll be pricey. I think I put in Lemfoeder mounts last time and are cheaper. You'll need an alignment after the mounts are replaced.
  12. How was the routing? I know Adam has a post/pics somewhere.
  13. Rear arms in with the superpro poly. Would have been a super fast job however there's always something... one of the bolts were seized to the bushing sleeve and had to sawzall / dremel the bolt.
  14. I think I am wrong about that magnaflow/jetex same factory statement - it was bsr not magnaflow.
  15. Magnaflow is definitely less restrictive then the oem cat, but the next restriction is the midpipe. I had ordered the magnaflow before getting the rest of the exhaust and ended up colluding the two worlds. If I had to do it again I'd say just have a custom dp made and skip the second cat outright or put in one of those coolkid fake looking cats. I used the magnaflow, had an ebay machine shop craft up a flange that mates to the cat fitting / oe gasket, and had the exhaust shop install the jetex with a midpipe that has a high flow ebay cat. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Volvo-S40-V40-Downpipe-Flange-2-5-UpPipe-2001-2004-L4-1-9-Liter-Gas-/141834879198 http://www.snabb.us/S40-2001-2003-Jetex-304-Stainless-steel-high-flow-exhaust_p_277.html (pretty sure jetex is in the same factory as magnaflow?)
  16. Also an 03. About 170 when I did mine.
  17. I used it in mine when I flushed and re-did that thread. If you're phase 2 go for it. I think the older 4 speed used dextron.
  18. I think both of mine were Cardone select. The ones with the bad bearing were probably 2-3 yrs old. I couldn't say if I over tightened it though. CARDONE SELECT 669229 (66-9229) (Rock auto) FRONT LEFT CARDONE SELECT 669230 (66-9230) (Rock auto) FRONT RIGHT If you get the ones that aren't select, the ones with A1 Cardone, I think they are the reman ones? but also take a core. I'm told if they get back their own "select" as cores they just throw them out.
  19. I also had a bad bearing the last set https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm7UTVI0nFU
  20. Door seals, front sway bar bushings, end links, oxygen sensor.
  21. Ever replace your sway bar bushings?
  22. Sorry, what I thought was the ph2 mount bits was just a serpentine pulley.
  23. I believe there was an update and it might have changed angles / orientation. You cannot use the ph2 on ph1 without welding I've read. I have both in boxes (new) and can check part #'s for you. I want to say there is an orientation/angle update to the mount and is why you need a new "partner" bracket to go with it to keep the angle correct.