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Everything posted by Phixion

  1. I've seen various brand offerings for stock OEM replacement... Of course Bilstein, I've also seen Sachs, Monroe, KYB and Volvo branded which I'm thinking is Bilstein. I know there was also Nivomat. What's that best OEM replacement option? I know that KYB and Bilstein are both great brands.
  2. I read flywheel as crank pulley totally knowing what you meant, lol! I don't recall actually seeing that it damaged the motor, but could create issues with the charging system and how the alternator does what it does. I think that's what I recall of it. There's definitely posts places about that thought that can be searched.
  3. I've heard of a lightened fly wheel too, but have heard negative things about it also. I can't recall what exactly though. Upsolute is a good tune I understand, but I have heard that there are better tunes out there also and that in some cases, the Upsolute tune may be more bad than good. Again I can't recall what exactly, but a search on here should yield that answer.
  4. This I would highly look into as well. The vacuum lines as well as intake and I/C plumbing are always the first places that you want to look when investigating low boost problems. TCV is a common item to go out unfortunately (I have a good working spare one that I don't need anymore) and of course rubber hoses and lines are susceptible to high heat like our engines produce. That all said, the wastegate CAN in fact get out of tune so to speak. iPD wouldn't make a tool or tutorial about it if it wasn't the case. I can attest to this also after adjusting the waste gate on my current S60, as when supposedly fully closed, it was in fact not and was just a pinch open with no throttle input and thus needed adjusting to get back to being fully closed with the waste gate diaphragm fully compressed. I don't know if it's due to the diaphragm getting lazy and old after time and heat or what causes this, but it does happen. Before adjusting mine, I had some noticeable turbo lag and now not so much. I'm having some low boost issues myself currently, but it's more than likely a vacuum line or intake / I/C hose leak issue.
  5. I'd concur. I went through a motor as well, probably most likely due to running the car at 17psi... Eventually the turbo gave out causing the car to go through a quart of oil a week, and a spark plug every 2 days on one of the cylinders until the day I brought it into the shop with probably less than 50 miles of life left on it, it was spewing oil both through the intercooler pathways AND through the turbo dripping out of the tail pipe. Basically a bad piston ring ultimately. All this AFTER having had the PCV system replaced and before that having had a head gasket replacement due to a upper radiator hose that failed and snapped in half while doing about 3500 RPM near WOT going up a hill on the freeway. After the work on both of those, it was brought to my attention about the lower compression in one of the cylinders (#3 in my case) and that even after the head gasket replacement, it was still lower than the others. $5k and one month of down time with the car and problem was solved with a "new" low mileage motor which pulled almost as heard completely stock as my 17psi old motor did. All I did was run an MBC and bypass the TCV... I wouldn't recommend either. I'd do like said above and just invest in a good reliable proven tune and goodies like exhaust and intake upgrade. Those all will cost you less money and time than an engine replacement where you'll almost certainly like I did, for out more than the car is even worth. Just my $0.02 and experience... That all said, I used a TurboSmart Gated style MBC which I liked a lot!
  6. Oh the TCV bypass trick! Ran that on my 40... Wish I could with my 60... *sigh* That chart, what I gathered from analyzing it (besides that it's for the 5-cyl motors more-less) is that waste gate will always be 1.8psi for LPT models (2.5T), and 4.4psi for HPT models (T5 and R) Also of note, when I adjusted mine on my S60, strangely my motor is NOT listed on there, the B5254T2... When I adjusted mine however (it's the clip pin style attachment to the actuator arm) it's ~1.8psi just like I had thought it would be. I don't see why adjusting the 1.9T S40 motors wouldn't be the same sans for maybe a different psi value? I do recall anywhere it was mentioned, the value was about 5.5psi like stated above... I never had the chance to delve into mine when I had my S40 unfortunately. I just ran the original motor balls to the walls at 17psi using a MBC, lol!
  7. I concur. There's a great how-to from iPD on how to adjust the waste gate to properly function as it's meant to. And you don't need their expensive special tool to do this either. I made my own manual powered adjustment tool using a blood pressure cuff bulb pump, a Mr Gasket brand 0-15psi gauge (which is marked in ½ psi increments) and some silicon tubing to adjust the waste gate on my S60's turbo. Just attach to the waste gate hose and you can see at that PSI the waste gate actuator arm begins to move. Then you can adjust the arm from there so that the waste gate valve is CLOSED when the actuator diaphragm is fully retracted. The arm should then begin to move at the proper listed PSI value that iPD gives.
  8. I ditto cleaning the MAF. A dirty one can cause all sorts of endless chases to the root of the problem, a dirty MAF...
  9. That's always a good thing!! Even when I ran my S40 boosted to 17psi with a MBC, it still passed emissions, both the mechanical dyno / sniffer test and the visual inspection. CA is a very tough place to pass emissions.
  10. I never knew that. Unfortunately I don't have the year that it was built any longer and don't remember it offhand I do remember that it had the P2 suspension and exterior details, but it also had a MAP sensor as I was able to read MAP readings through the OBDII port...
  11. I gotcha. Mine wasn't a tear though, the hose completely severed itself at the one of the connection points. I always thought I had a P2, but maybe not? It had many of the P2 changes. I know that the car was driveable when the hose split, but just ran extremely poorly and rough, had no pickup but idle was OK the day or so I drove it that way.
  12. Mine was an '01. Much different though? It was the small diameter S shaped hose just under the large upper IC hose.
  13. The filter replace should not have affected the fan resistor, that's just a coincidence that it went out around the same time. It's very common in S40's though. And a standard code reader will not diagnose these, I believe only VIDA DICE would be able to.
  14. When that hose split for me, the car WOULD run both with throttle and at idle... Just had 0 boost and gave 3 CEL codes. On the other hand, when the brake booster line to the TB popped out, the car died and would not run at all.
  15. Check the S-shaped hose that's right at the front of the car just under the IC hose. This hose goes to the TB if I remember correctly and is a different diameter on each end, so not a very common hose to find a replacement of. Generally only a Volvo hose is what you'll have to get. I replaced that one on my S40 and a local specialty mechanic told me that's one of the most common hoses to fail after the elbow at the upper radiator hose. When that hose I speak of goes, you'll get almost NO boost pressure, and 2-3 CEL codes as well.
  16. Also a common thing to have to replace in the S40, is the fan resistor. Many of owners have had to replace theirs to restore fan functionality to operate properly again. The bulbs going out might be a coincidence, but maybe not. Check all fuses first and foremost, then go from there. Good luck!!
  17. I replaced the ones on my S40 with LEDs. Nice and bright! You'll need the long type though. A member on here sent me some spares that they had, and that's what I used. They are not like a normal T3 or T4 like found in the headlight switch. The bulbs in the climate control have a long stalk to them. They are similar to this, but will require some cutting to make the LED actually fit the hole onto the console from the back of it.
  18. Sounds like a good plan to me! I'd hate to see the 60 go though, you have one of the nice ones! Well built too.
  19. If a larger fits and costs less, always go larger! Unless there's a specific reason not to such as without proper reinforcement, a significantly larger bar especially at the rear can cause issues. Of course going larger front without upsizing the rear could induce added understeer. Have you decided which you're going to get? As long as it's identical in shape, the 19mm should fit, of course you'll just need the larger mounts to go with it. Not sure if something like Energy Suspension poly mounts for a 19mm bar would fit possibly saving some $$ in the process if they are cheaper than a pair of OEM mounts. Plus the Energy bushings are grease able. I've done this on other cars, but not my S40 when I had it.
  20. Ahh yeah! That's why putting it through the TB area of the intake is ok.
  21. That is super clean! Good job!! Glad to hear Seafoam pt2. got everything working good again for you, Xcites. I wonder if Seafoam in other areas can help clean up a PCV system, hmm...
  22. Their Facebook page...
  23. I remember about Autotech as well. They are located in Eastvale CA which is just south of Ontario off the I-15. They have a Facebook page I recall... I keep forgetting about them too. Only a few miles from me, I should look into them for my S60.
  24. That's good to hear!! Car running better now afterwards?