R1CKSO

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About R1CKSO

  • Rank
    S40R
  • Birthday 10/09/1991

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    ricks_ducati999@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mexico
  • Interests
    Cars,S40, Tennis, Roger Federer, CBR bikes, women!!

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  1. Nope, you just need to install a boost gauge to keep an eye on the increments and ideally a wideband gauge so you can keep an eye on afr's as well, yours being an early 2.0t can take more beat than the phase 2, it can take around 300hp obviously with supporting mods and correct afr's at wot
  2. Manual boost controller
  3. Check engine light lol sorry
  4. You can remove the main cat and weld a straight 2.75" pipe you just need this welded or threaded to that pipe:https://www.ebay.com/itm/121904567355 so you don't get any CEL
  5. Upsolute is the only chip running company in the US I guess, there's not too many bolt ons for these cars, the common mod is to install a 14t from the t4 model and remove the cat
  6. Any other parts Warren? Did you finally sell the S40?
  7. If you have no codes yet, no it will not show anything unless it is scanned with a DICE unit (official Volvo tool that shows all the parameters in the car and I mean ALL but only dealers have that device also Chinese knockoffs but it is hard to install and use), do genuine thermostats were used?
  8. A long warmup time is due probably a thermostat issue, if it is true the car will probably have a code soon
  9. Another thing that concerns me, why was the injector replaced? A faulty injector could lead to knock which could cause damage to the block as well leading to all of the above mentioned
  10. Does your coolant look like that? The thing is if that is happening , the probable cause is that something (the head,block, oil cooler) has a crack the first two, will lead the coolant system to pressurise, and if the system is working at a higher pressure than it was designed for, it will of course leak trough the easiest way, my question is, are you 100% that the coolant was green and clean before And now it turned that colour? If it indeed was clean and now contaminated you have an internal leak somewhere. Do this test when possible, start the car from cold let it run for around 2 minutes and open the expansion tank, let me know if you got a very large amount of pressure released after just two minutes of running from cold.
  11. What color is the fluid then? from the picture looks like the dreaded oil/coolant mix. Open your expansion tank, if you see something that resembles a frapuccino (light brown and thick) you have coolant and oil mixing, also check the oil dipstick if it has signs of the above, which in my almost 10 year experience with these cars is caused by one or combination of these; -cracked cylinder liner (very common) - cracked head (common) - cracked oil cooler ( unlikely but still possible) i have yet to see one oil-coolant mixing problem that's related to a head gasket, so if indeed those fluids are mixing, chances are you need to replace something engine wise, 99% of the time is related to an overheat issue which caused an expansion on the head/block and caused a crack where oil and coolant mix, resulting in that thick milkshake looking fluid.
  12. You can probably get away with a 19T (a real one, not the hybrid, that is a very dangerous option) at low boost (10-12) pounds, an adjustable fpr, red injectors and wideband gauge, that would maintain safe afr's at WOT, would probably run a little rich on idle and partial throttle, but the ECU can adjust for the extra fuel to some extent, that way you can run the setup "safely" without a tune, otherwise, prepare for a new engine in a few days.
  13. PM'd you about how to install a real 19T you need a manifold and probably modify the oil/coolant lines here and there, nothing too big, also of anyone's interested I have an adapted R manifold for sale and adapted ME7 manifolds for sale. PM for any other details
  14. Who do I need to cantact? I need a tune for my k24, wondering if they do manual S40's ECU?