tcode

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Everything posted by tcode

  1. My 2.0 N/A cams will be installed (finally) tomorrow, so will see how they perform with overboosted 14t . For those who interested, part numbers of cams are: 9135682 - intake and 9135683 - exhaust.
  2. GerBeGurGya wrote on Wed, 29 November 2006 21:23Those marks are from your valves right?.Don't forget that on high RPM-s if the exhaust can not flow really well the back pressure might gonna work against the valves making the valves closing up late or not letting it close at all.At this point the valves are controlled by the gases only.To prevent a catastrophic event like that the use of stronger spring are definitely a must to maintain proper closing.On the OEM clearance this has been calculated and with a change of the cams which pushes the valves deeper the clearance could be close to the safe limit.Stronger springs are the answer in this case. The marks are from my ex valves which are now bented because booth of belts (timing and auxilary) were destroyed (http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=9045&amp ;amp ;rid=563&S=142d7d3f79c9f36158f93f80e78fc6d0&pl_view= &start=0#msg_100966). Back pressure won't be an issue with full 3" exhaust and #7 exhaust opening on 16t turbo I belive. Also, if you put stronger springs you will definitely put much more stress on camshafts and bearings which obviusly isn't good. As Vulvas40T4 already said, those cams are not that aggresive, so stock springs will be fine.
  3. GerBeGurGya wrote on Tue, 28 November 2006 18:36You might don't wanna adjust the cams as it looks like it opens 1mm more deep already compare to the original one.You don't have too much clearance to play with between the piston and the valves and better to be safe than sorry. Well, in my case it doesn't realy matter since pistons in my engine are already moded for minimum clearence
  4. vulvas40t4 wrote on Thu, 23 November 2006 14:10Also we have adjustable head wheels on cams and adjustment range is + - 7.5 degrees on both cams. I left the adjustments on original 0, 0 settings. How can I make adjustments?
  5. wa666ou wrote on Tue, 28 November 2006 10:04sry for hijacking topic, but as I'm getting 16T as well... so, there's no point making new 2,5" exhaust (all the way) before getting 16T? I mean it would be different flange at the downpipe connection. Right. Or you can do all except DP at this point.
  6. sacsha1 wrote on Mon, 27 November 2006 19:11did you buy adapter plate, you need to change that on ur manifold and cut your flange on ur downpipe and rotate it like 15 degree and ur good to go I don't have adapter plate at this moment.If I can't buy it for reasonable money I'll make one. DP isn't realy big problem since my exhaust shop already made custom 3" DP for me, some time before and will do it again for cheap.
  7. vulvas40t4 wrote on Mon, 27 November 2006 05:58 tcode wrote on Mon, 27 November 2006 12:00Ok, put it another way, why should I look for 18t instead 19t? 16T 7# 280hp 18T 7# 310hp 19T 7# 330hp 19T has little bit longer spool up time and if your goal is 300hp then 18T is the turbo for that. So why over size the turbo. So I went today to pick up cams and I couldn't resist to buy this too for a 180¤ , #7 exh. housing .
  8. vulvas40t4 wrote on Mon, 27 November 2006 01:49 tcode wrote on Mon, 27 November 2006 00:26 vulvas40t4 wrote on Sun, 26 November 2006 17:16Great you find cams. My plan is to take the original rods and clutch to limit and thats enough for me. So about 280-300hp. More than 300hp and you need to swap clutch and rods. 18T is fine for about 300-320hp with these cams. Phase 2 maf is enough for 340hp. You plan sound very good but if you dont want to swap those rods and clutch then you might want to thing about 18t. Yup, I am aware of stock clutch/rods limits and I don't intend go further than 300HP too. Is 18t easier to adapt on stock mainfold? All HL series mitsus need same installation. TD04HL-16T,18T,19T. L series is our original TD04L-14T , 12T. Ok, put it another way, why should I look for 18t instead 19t?
  9. vulvas40t4 wrote on Sun, 26 November 2006 17:16Great you find cams. My plan is to take the original rods and clutch to limit and thats enough for me. So about 280-300hp. More than 300hp and you need to swap clutch and rods. 18T is fine for about 300-320hp with these cams. Phase 2 maf is enough for 340hp. You plan sound very good but if you dont want to swap those rods and clutch then you might want to thing about 18t. Yup, I am aware of stock clutch/rods limits and I don't intend go further than 300HP too. Is 18t easier to adapt on stock mainfold?
  10. vulvas40t4 wrote on Sun, 26 November 2006 16:49[ Yes idle remains same. I have the same ecu program still and no problem. Mixture is same and also car works fine as i said. Our ecu is fast learning. Next ecu software for my car will be for phase 2 maf. Cool, thx. I was hardworking tonight and I founded cams from B4204S for a 136¤. Will pick them up tomorrow, since guy have junkyard just a 25km from where I live. My plan is finishing tuning before next summer and starting some body work and styling. LSD is on the way, 16t or 19t will be soon, FMIC, bigger injectors (550 cc/min) and PhII MAF is what I need before remap. Please feel free to coment.
  11. If I install those cams, do I have to remap imediately, or I can drive my car safely for a copuple of months?
  12. Rough idle was my only concern. Thank you for the info. Also, I was told that some Renault models such as Laguna, Safrane etc shares same engine as Volvo S40 (B4204S), so maybe camshafts from that cars can play the role?
  13. 2 vulvas40t4 Where did you bought those cams? Any left? Also, any changes after swapping on idle?