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sks40 last won the day on October 15 2016

sks40 had the most liked content!

About sks40

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    Fairly R

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  • My Cars
    2005 V50 T5 (my ride), 2001 S40 (son's), 2002 S40 (RIP), 1998 V70 (sold)
  • Occupation

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  • Location
    Maryland (USA)
  • Interests
    Cars, Electronics, Audio, Photography
  1. Awesome! Nice to see interest in the older S40/V40 generation. I know it is getting harder to find stuff to fit them, so you have to fabricate.
  2. If the cooling system wasn't properly bled of air, you will see the level go down until all the air is out. The bleeder valve usually does a good gob of letting the air out of these engines and just a little top-off after a few good runs.
  3. I don't post here much but used to in the past when it was S40 Concepts. Anyway, my Silver '05 V50 T5 got totaled this past November by a deer that exercised poor judgement in crossing the road. The car was just shy of 200K miles and running fantastic. What a shame. I wanted another V50 T5 and looked at a few but nothing was panning out. Then Herb Gordon Volvo got a red 2005 V50 T5 6spd. I wasn't going to buy it because my wife doesn't drive a stick but she talked me into it. Whooo Hoooo! I haven't driven a stick since I traded my Acura Integra in for the S40 back in 2002 and forgot how much fun it is. Stan
  4. I thought that the wastegate trick works only for a while until the computer compensates for the added boost, negating the affect. If your boost is low it may be your TCV or a leak in your intake plumbing. Stan
  5. After my son's car passed the emission test, the light came on again (P0237 and P0128)
  6. Well my son's S40 made it through emission testing today, woo hoo!
  7. As I recall, there were some Frankin40s which were an odd mix of Phase 1 and Phase 2. I haven't had chance to check my son's IC hoses but it is running good with no CEL. That reminds me... he needs to take it for emission testing.
  8. The fan speed issue is caused by the fan motor resistor (earlier S40) or transistor (later models, i think 2001-2004). It is located under/behind the glove box near the fan motor and easy to replace as a module. The transistor module is a little pricey. Back when this place was S40Concepts, I had a How-To write-up on replacing the transistor. There was also a nice write-up on replacing the transistor on the module for just a few $. Can't seem to find them anymore. The light bulb issue is unrelated to the fan speed issue. Stan
  9. Good thought about the IC hoses. I suppose that it could cause an intermittent leak. The CEL is off on its own now. I had tried to clear the code with a code reader and VIDA/DiCE. Perhaps it took some run-time to truly clear. My son says the car is running better and idles smoother. Still have the heater issue. From what I read on the UK forum, it looks like we probably have a bad damper motor.
  10. Sorry to resurrect, but I have that issue with a stock S40. Any solution?
  11. My sons '01 S40 is giving the P0236 and P0237 codes for the boost pressure sensor 1. According to VIDA, this is the sensor on the intercooler. VIDA mentions causes to be: 1) dirty electrical contacts, 2) open circuit in the harness, 3) sort circuit in the harness or 4) bad sensor. I inspected the connectors and harness but didn't see any issue. Given that these things seem to be a common failure, I replaced it with a new Bosch sensor but still get the code. Thinking it might be the one on the intake manifold instead, I reinstalled the old one in the intercooler and replaced the one in the intake manifold with the new one. Still no joy. Elsewhere on the internet I have read folks reporting that this could be caused by a bad TCV or a leak in the intake pipes from the turbo to intercooler to intake. Any of this true? Any ideas where to go next? Thanks Stan
  12. If I recall, the TCM is in the driver side kick panel.
  13. Also, the check engine light is on, P0442 small evap leak. We replaced the gas cap that had a cracked gasket with a genuine Volvo cap but still have the code. Any ideas? Purge valve? Thanks Stan
  14. We replaced the front brake rotors and pads, cleaned/lubed the rear brakes, flushed brake fluid and oil change yesterday. This car sat for a while, likely on grass, and has a lot of rust under the hood, exhaust and brakes. I am wondering if the car was exposed to salt water but I don't see any evidence that water got to the interior. The caliper brackets are very rusty and I had to pry the brake pads off. I am not sure how the brakes were even working. I was able to clean/polish the sliding surfaces. Fortunately the guide pins were still sliding nicely. Someone had left the brake fluid cap just sitting on top and not screwed down. The fluid looked a little nasty so we flushed with new. The brakes look nasty but are working much better and the car is faster. Apparently they brakes had been dragging. I still need to replace the flex pipe and it looks like the turbo oil line is leaking a little. Stan
  15. Mine is fwd auto T5. I see come manuals come up on Craig's List occasionally. I tried to jump on one that was a T5, manual, awd, prem sound, dynamic sport pkg, red with blk interior. I think it had a little over 100K miles for $5K. I was too late. I was going to buy that one and give mine to my son. I have not had any major problems. Most were fixed with software. The control arm bushings and the strut bearings seem to go quickly. If you buy from FCP Euro you get a lifetime warranty on the parts. I am about to take advantage of it for my LCA's because one of the ball joint boots had split and the grease had been gone long enough for the joint to get all rusty. I could do the ball joint but it is just as easy to replace the LCA and I get the replacement for free. The motor and transmission have been rock solid even with 190K miles. Besides oil changes, I had the timing belt replaced at 110K and trans fluid changed at 80K. I am also fixing my alarm system. I think it is just the internal battery which I am going to make my own battery pack to replace. My headliner also fell and I recovered it, though I was in a hurry and didn't do as good a job as I would have liked (has a few wrinkles). Some folks have issues with sunroof drains clogging. I haven't but I made sure they were clean when I pulled the headliner panel out. Once I do the LCA and get new tires, it should ride like new. There is still a lot of performance upgrades available. I think the popularity of the C30 helped a lot. Some parts are shared with the Ford Focus and Mazda 3 which helps also. It seems like the market has dried up for the S/V40. I haven't done too much performance wise. I do have an upgraded rear sway bar from IPD, Koni Yellow shocks/struts, a K&N drop-in filter and an ECU spacer (this was something found on the previous Focus RS in Europe that used the same Volvo 2.5L but tuned up a bit). The ECU mounts to the air-box and has cooling fins that protrude into the air flow. The spacer moves the ECU out a little for better air flow but is still safe for the ECU. The factory air box actually flows pretty good. Most go with a CAI for sound.