Geordie Bob

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About Geordie Bob

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    Seriously R

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    Newcastle - England

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  1. Has anyone changed their rightside when standing at the back facing forwards, position sensor. It appears to be pop riveted to the cradle, but how you remove them????/then re attach the new one. Just wondering if anyone has done this repair and what method they used.... Cheers Bob
  2. Suggest you contact Lukas @ volvodiagnostics in London. Contact details are on the UK Volvo owners forum. Reliable guy who has helped me and many others there with DEM/DIM/ABS issues which others have failed to fix. Assuming the 2004/54 is a UK plate ref. Cheers Bob
  3. Ok Anti skid service can be related to many things. Usually, its the reluctor rings on the end of the drive shafts that rust, split and then send false signals to the relevant module. However as you appear to have been pointed in the direction of the Differential control module (DEM) that is what I'm going to detail. The best thing to do is get the codes read with VIDA/DICE. This will give you fairly accurate guidance as to where the problem lies. I have a similar issue ( as yet unresolved but detailed on here ) but can offer what I have learned/discovered. The on demand coupling (AOC) sits immediately infront of the rear diff, and is controlled by a control unit (silver plated cover panel marked "Haldex") (DEM) Remove the 2 @ 4mm Allen bolts will reveal two removable components - a pressure/temperature sensor, and a regulator/solenoid. Additional to these two items is a electric pump, which is used to prime the system. Failure in any of these components will cause failure of the AWD. So, failure in the oil pump, pressure sensor,regulator, or DEM controller = lose of AWD. There are other causes of lose of AWD, these are not 100% exhaustive -I have not found my reason, but from what I have read, cover 2/3 of instances where AWD has gone AWOL. In the US I have seen a company called Exmodex advertise offering to check DEM and if faulty repair ( they suffer water ingress due to location) If that checks out ok next check the oil pump - 12vDC across the terminals and you should hear/feel it working. If bad they are 230 sterling in uk. Pump ok then check out a new pressure sensor @ about 120 sterling. Both components can be cleaned by leaving to soak overnight in petrol. Once you get the AWD working its adviseable to change the AOC filter, and remove the Oil pump to clean the intake strainer, which clogs and breaks the pump. Volvo claim all these units are sealed for life... Audi change oil every 20000Km and filter every 40000Km (those mileages might be the wrong way around.) but you see my point. I'm looking at the actual AOC unit as being my point of failure, but it does not warrent the cost of a new unit - so my car is currently only FWD. Good luck on your issue. Cheers Bob
  4. mmm..... thought that would be the reply..... not keen on trying to remove brake nipples for bleeding - can see that being a "whole can of worms"..... Will soak the nipples in nail varnish remover and ATF fluid for a week before I start..... Cheers Bob
  5. On routine servicing noticed one of my rear brake piston dust seals had split. Can they be replaced in situ? or must the caliper be removed.?? Any suggestions on best way to proceed much appreciated. Cheers Bob
  6. Update:- The DEM005 code has now been cleared, for how long is unclear. The Haldex was flushed with new oil 4 times and air blown into the oil each time to disturb as much crud as possible. All fluid was removed and a new amount poured in. Current VIDA data shows Oil pressure 0MPa in driving, Solenoid current 12mA and pump current 4mA or 9mA (it constantly jumps) Despite the zero oil pressure there are no DTC's or warning lights on the dash. Cheers Bob.
  7. Thurs 17 Dec My 2004 V70 AWD R 6 speed manual 97K mileage has developed a fault. It started by throwing an anti skid service required warning approx. 10 mile from home. Part of the journey involved doing a 5 point turn in a back street. I could not swear to it, but during the turning around, the car felt as if it was mechanically being braked, or perhaps more of a drag as the car would free wheel but not as it should. Then out of the blue there were two separate "bangs" when going forward on two legs of the turn on full lock,as if the car had jumped out of gear which it had not, from somewhere at the front near side. This was not spring noise but gear teeth moving under duress My immediate reaction after the second bang was to panic and switch the engine off. On restarting the car the warning triangle and message had disappeared and I completed the journey home with no further problem. DICE/VIDA reported DEM000B Oil pressure DEM faulty Value as the only relevant DTC. I read and cleared this DTC but then DICE/VIDA reported DEM0005 Regulator valve faulty signal, DEM 000B did not return. This latter DTC cannot be cleared. After checking the tightness of the two front hub bolt (both fine) I took the car out to a car park and on full lock either way there was noise which I'd say was a cross between tyre rub and the vibration noise you get from the aluminium heat shield above the exhaust when it comes loose - which mine ain't. It appeared to come from just over my left shoulder/ centre of the back seat area. The was also 2 more "jump out of gear bangs" Also the "drag" was again apparent. The oil level in the Haldex is fine and clean being changed some 25K ago. The Haldex is dry no leaks. IIRC damaged Bevel gear don't throw DTC'S but they do rumble before failure, and mines been "normal" which is why I do/did not suspect it, unless the gear teeth clashing is teeth breaking off. What the other rubbing/scraping noise is, is a mystery.. It sound like the prop shaft is rubbing somehow, but again only on full lock... Fri 18th Dec Took the car to my local "friendly" dealer this PM - they are genuinely friendly with me. Prognosis appears terminal... They took the car for several test drives, and put it up and down on ramps. There is something seriously amiss. On the ramps the RH Rear road wheel only sometimes rotated, but always at a slower speed than the other 3, which all turned at the same speed. They think there is a problem with the AOC (£2000 less change) and probably with the rear diff ( £2400 less change). Something is causing the rear wheel to run slow ( finger points to the rear diff) as that's where the driveshaft comes out and on tighter turns it winds the transmission up, which then goes bang up front in the angle gear when this tension is relieved.... I would dearly like to keep the car but to invest £4400 and possibly then find this banging was teeth being stripped from the bevel gears and have to dig deeper into an overdraught is not on. I might be willing to invest up to £ 500 on parts Old/new to see how we go, else wise the whole car is a loss. I'm not thinking too straight right now and so ask for comments/suggestions, I need to check up part numbers on VIDA for the AOC/DEM bits XC 70 unless someone knows they are/are not the same, because AWD R are like hens teeth., I know angle gear can be swapped from XC 70 and some S60 As this is a dedicated V70R forum I wondered if anyone had come across this issue and is it as it appears..... a terminal failure. Cheers Bob
  8. UPDATE... On a whim, I took my R VERY SLOWLY to my Indie mate, who runs a workshop. His first call after rechecking pipes and pistons was to change the brake fluid and use his snap-on computer to open and close all the various valves in the hydraulic unit with the car at rest, engine off. He told me the ABS (motor/pump) was initially constantly running, which was not a good sign, but then after this "prodding" with the computer and brake bleeding the brake pedal suddenly came back to normal. The car has been in regular town use for about a week now, and there is no hint of a brake problem. What cause the initial problem.... I don't know.....What fixed the problem.....I don't know. I still have the ABS unit, which I'll keep, Only code VIDA shows relate to my phone.... Cheers Bob
  9. Yesterday I spent a lot of time talking to Volvo Main dealers, Volvo Specialists, and discussions on forums, and the consensus appeared to be :- 1 As I have a very hard brake pedal when the engine is off but a 95% to the floor pedal with the engine on, and the ABS motor running is highly doubtful the issue is with the Brake master cylinder or servo unit. 2 Any fault with the ABS control module should throw up a DTC - I have none shown by DICE. 3 If as its believed there is no issue with the master cylinder, and there are no control module fault codes, the problem by deduction lies with in the Hydraulic Body of the ASB unit. This could also account for why the pedal goes to the floor as there is a flow and return system for the brake fluid when the ABS / DSTC kick in. 4 A 2nd hand matching part number hydraulic unit can be substituted with out issue - ie no coding/software. 5 Depending upon who you speak to, the ABS control module cannot be recoded, nor used as its original software would conflict with the new cars own software. - this point is open to debate. I have subsequently purchased a 2nd hand ABS unit from a breaker and will cannibalise the hydraulic unit to fit to my car - this saves any issue with compatibility. If that fails, I'll have to consider the option of adding the control unit to the mix and see if any issues are raised re compatibility. Hopefully by then someone might definitively say that control units can be reprogrammed or not with out following what appear to be "party lines". - Dealers saying no, some specialists saying yes it can be done. Cheers Bob
  10. Have now assessed issue and it looks like its the ABS module that has gone AWOL.... Starting to save up now....... Cheers Bob
  11. Checked all pipework/calliper pistons - all dry Checked master cylinder unions + servo connection - all dry. Checked in the footwell for signs of fluid leaking - 90% certain - all dry - bit of a contortion needed to get great access. Don't understand clutch reference - don't see how one would affect the other - that said slave was changed 40K ago along with pressure plate +DMF. I'm wondering about some V70R system - just cant believe a master cylinder can be good on day then fail the next without cause. I was fiddling under the bonnet the previous day with starter motor - what could I have done?? Cheers Bob
  12. Yesterday the brake pedal of my 2004 R (manual) went to the floor as I tried to brake - just as it would do if I were bleeding the brakes. The previous day I had been under the bonnet doing a repair on the starter motor - don't see how that would/could cause issue but I don't know. I have now pressed the pedal some 10-20 times with the engine running on the basis that if I had a leak the reservoir level would drop and I could go hunting a burst pipe/connection - There was no drop in fluid level, so I'm guessing no burst pipes - I will however check in the daytime. If this was a less complicated car I'd immediately suspect Brake master cylinder failure - (even if straight away from the day before good brakes) but these cars are complex so I'm not sure. There was no DIM message and there is no VIDA/DICE codes either. Am I correct in my diagnosis? - bad brake master cylinder? Cheers Bob
  13. My 04 R Manual is the best car I have owned,even though I have had all the major problems mentioned above - angle gear ; clutch and fly wheel ; two front struts, and currently back in the garage for more repairs. Why am I still smiling? I have a first class warranty which has protected me from the pain of paying to maintain this car. I would not consider buying this type of car without a good warranty, either bought from Volvo or purchased from a reputable provider. You might be lucky and have few problems. I also run a 02 plate T5 manual which has 196K miles and apart from a set of drop links, front arms, trackrod ends and brake discs has never missed a beat, but it lacks the grunt of the "R" oh almost forgot I stuffed the exhaust into the prop shaft via the "bracket of doom"- that was a £800 touch for parts. If you do buy an R - make sure the bracket is removed......... As other have said here, when they are running well they are great cars. Bob.
  14. Hi Squirrel catcher was not removed as per instructions here. Caught on a small rock on farn lane and bent and up into prop shaft. See previous post and pic of damage. I thought price of repair was cheap compared to what others have paid. Bob