Big Will

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Big Will last won the day on August 26 2015

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About Big Will

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    Addicted to R
  • Birthday 01/01/1985

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    http://www.automotive-iq.com
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    Berlin, Germany

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  1. You're boosting 26 PSI?! That's a lot of boost.
  2. Nick I haven't been on here in ages. Great find!
  3. My original angle gear lasted over 120K miles and got fried due to having to use the donut for an extended drive. My 2nd one was a used unit with unknown mileage and lasted another 55K miles. The only reason that angle gear needed to be replaced was because my buddy broke the crown wheel trying to replace a leaking o-ring (Volvo dealership). My viscous coupling last 179K miles before needing to be replaced and I imagine the long drive on the donut years earlier didn't do it any favors. I'm on my 2nd driveshaft. The first lasted ~140K miles. Overall, I don't think that's so bad actually. The rear diff rarely fails and shares its components with the earlier RWD Volvos. What gets me is the fact that Volvo neglected to put a drain on the angle gear and therefore most owners and repair shops don't change the fluid. Also the tight tolerances of the AWD system in order to not damage it is a little pathetic. For example, it's absurd that Volvo supplied us with a donut that essentially will damage the AWD system unless you are lucky enough to only need to drive it around the block. All that said, you can put a lot of power through the system without doing damage as long as your tires are spot on and the fluids are fresh.
  4. Thanks for the compliment. My wagon is always a work in progress but it gives me a constant project whenever I'm back in the U.S. Looking at your pictures I regret throwing away my original door card inserts...I could have given them to you as they were in great shape aside from some very minor bubbling in the rears two. That said, you should be able to find some door cards in better shape than that at a junkyard - it's a pretty quick swap - just have a few extra clips at hand.
  5. The manual definitely makes for an improvement - I'm partial to AWD though You should definitely take the opportunity to install all new seals on the gearbox while you've got it all easily available.
  6. Congrats on starting a manual swap on your R! I assume you're going to convert to a FWD if you are swapping the motor and M56 from the T5?
  7. Sorry you ended up having to sell it. Hope you find another Volvo that will be a little less work to imagine. Wow that was a weird autocorrect. Little less work to 'handle' is what I meant.
  8. I think the person just painted the calipers with a funky looking blue...I wouldn't worry about that personally. There are tons of rebuilt calipers out there because all FWD Volvos of this generation used the same calipers whether the car had 280mm or 302mm front brakes (the bracket is different). The 98R had the 280s stock but a lot of people upgraded over the years. If the tires are all the same make/model and size, that's a good sign because anything different and the AWD system is sure to be damaged. From the pictures the interior looks decent for the age/mileage. The rear suspension looks like the nivomats (self-leveling shocks) are shot and will need to be replaced. That's a fairly pricey repair because the shocks are about $350/side plus any hardware you want to replace and that's assuming you do the labor yourself. It looks like the previous owner installed the 2000R exhaust because the 98 and 99 had the left side outlet of the bumper capped. It's really simple to 'upgrade' to the 2000 version and lots of people did this...I don't think exhaust leaks are big ticket items to worry about. The expensive stuff is more in the AWD system itself as the components are each going to cost roughly what you pay for the car so keep that in mind. You can drive the car carefully on jackstands to see if all 4 wheels spin. I think I've posted the Volvo tests for the components a number of times here on v70R. You can test the function of the viscous coupling with a torque spanner for example. I don't remember the specs off the top of my head but you should be able to find another thread on here with the info. At the end of the day though, Jim's right in terms of these cars costing quite a lot of money to get up to par/keep maintained. If you can do your own work that does help but there are some pricey big ticket items on the AWDs...and I say that being an absolute enthusiast about these cars. When they drive well, they're really great and 98 models are a touch simpler in terms of electronics. Oh and these turbos don't really whine. You should be able to feel the turbo spool up though. If the car just feels like it has no power then something else is wrong. The turbos are quite robust on these cars and last a long time although at the mileage that car has, if its the original turbo that's definitely up there in mileage!
  9. That sucks. At the machine shop I used for my engine rebuild the head work cost ~$375 and I supplied the valve stem seals. I know there is a company out of Florida that sells rebuilt heads for our cars for ~$500 but I'd go with a local machine shop if you have a decent one in your area. No shipping costs then obviously.
  10. Again, this is conjecture but I'm with Mike on this one at least in that it's probably something that runs off the accessory belt. You're right that an accessory belt noise should be heard when in park and revving the engine but it's possible that the force on the engine when accelerating is moving things just enough to change/create the pitch you hear. Obviously it would be great if you could hear the noise when revving the engine with the hood open, standing over it but that's not something that can be done while the car is driving around. Are you sure the noise isn't present in the situation I described above (revving engine with the hood open in Park)? Perhaps you can have a friend do so while you carefully check...you may hear something that gives you a clue.
  11. That doesn't sound like the kind of whine that an angle gear makes when it has damage...at least that's distinctly different from any that I've heard. To me, it sounds like the alternator or a tensioner/pulley making noise but obviously internet diagnosis is mostly just conjecture.
  12. Beautiful work there Nick. While I was in Arizona I had the chance to have the bushings pressed into my spare subframe and the LCAs as I mentioned to you and also drilled the vent hole on the rear diff cover and installed the vent just like on my angle gear. I used the Volvo anaerobic sealant in both cases to seal the brass vent which seems to work like a charm. Question - noticed you don't have the backing plates installed at the rear spindles. Are you just installing those once you've gotten the whole lump bolted up?
  13. Any chance the coil you used to replace the original one is also defective? Was it a used one that you replaced it with?
  14. Based on your description of the clunk when slowing down, it sounds more like your viscous coupling (specifically the freewheel mechanism) is not functioning properly. You may also have a problem with your angle gear but you may want to look into the viscous coupling as well because a bang or clunk when slowing down is a classic sign of a problem there.
  15. I'm gonna go with an endlink that's gone bad (I'd replace them in pairs personally). Meyle makes an HD set that are very reasonably priced. If you can get the car up off the ground a bit and get under and inspect the swaybar endlink on the side the noise is coming from you should be able to confirm it.