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Everything posted by NEU

  1. Welcome, another NoVa vR owner here.
  2. I still can't believe people are stupid enough to even consider ARD... I promise not to laugh too hard when your engine goes "BOOM!"... A simple Google search on him will tell you everything you need to know about his so called "tuning". And it's on ALL the boards, not just VS. You've been warned!
  3. Nobodies done it cause it won't work. Non of the mounting points will match. And the p80 rear suspension is Nivomat, which support the weight, not the rear springs 4c isn't... Not to mention 4c is combined with the ECU which also controls the AWD. No ECU control for p80 cars... Again not going to work without full customized suspension and wiring etc. etc... You'd be better off just buying a used p2R.
  4. The Foresters are nice and big, but still based on the Impreza platform. The current body is stretched over the pervious body style and gives the rear passenger more leg room over the XV...
  5. p80= 850/s/v/c70 (our cars) p2= s60/v70 p1= s40/v50/c30/c70
  6. He's around on IG bashing the Jehovah Witnesses and flexing a lot in front of a mirror, but is out of the parts game... Talk to Nick @ Revolv he might have one but is mostly dealing with parting P2 cars. Or try on VS on FB.
  7. What's the offset? I'm running 18x8 38et with 235/40 tires and they are stuffing the wheel wells, plus the car is lowered. They rub at full lock and at the outer edges of the fender lips. If you run narrower tires it could be possible, but it all depends on the offset. I accidently left my 5mm spacers on once and offset of 33mm was too much for the rear outer arches.
  8. Carfax would fall under the "accidents, maintenance, repairs" investigating/research that I mentioned he should do... So would running the VIN at the dealer to see it's history... Also the number of '06 vR imported are 823, about 510+ are autos. The most popular exterior colors are sapphire black, titanium grey and passion red, the most popular interior color is Gobi. I seriously doubt that the car Florida/Kentucky car with trans issues you mentioned for sale year+ ago is the same car as the one he's looking at in Illinois...
  9. All the high end exhaust systems are all around the $800 mark, give or take $100. If you wanted a cheap and good quality bolt on exhaust/catless DP look for OBX systems. The p80 guys love them and I'm looking at them for a cattless DP and muffler for my c30R. The IPD softloader looks like it's being replaced by a new product. Have you asked them when they are releasing it? And as it states you can still send your ECU in to get tune. And to do that is less "spendy" than the softloader. But again a lot of the tunes run around the same price give or take. The lower cost ones are the "homebrew tuners" Hilton, JZW, Beusted, Steveo, etc. The big boys like IPD (MTE), Eurosporttuning (Rica), Elevate (Autotech) are all disturbing heavy hitters from Europe that put a lot more R&D to get a tune right from the start than the seat of your pants riding shotgun tunes. Some folks call them "custom" vs. "off the shelf" which they are. The off the shelf you can flash it and go, the other you might have to spend time having it tweaked to be perfect. Both will get you what you want, more power, its just the method on getting there that's different. Personally I'd go for a local tune (custom or off the shelf) you'll have them immediately to help you if anything goes wrong vs. having to wait for them to get back to you... I have a off the shelf Speedtuning tune, he's 30min from my place. I don't know anything about JZW tunes but looks like a good product. Also I don't think he's tuning ME7 cars but Beusted is in Colorado too. Might be worth seeing if he does. Also do yourself a favor and stay away from ARD!
  10. Tirerack
  11. Details like interior color, options, condition of the exterior/interior, accidents, maintenance, repairs, etc. etc. etc... Without any of this information I'd be guessing it's worth based on less than a sentence and a small fuzzy photo. I'd suggest that you investigate/research all those things before you buy any car, especially one that you don't know anything about. Or maybe take it to an indy Volvo shop that has dealt with p2R's to have them look it over for you. You can go here to get a rough idea what it's worth... Kelly Blue Book. Volvo AWD systems are very good in dry/wet/snow. But it's the tires that make contact with the ground. Knowing the brand/model of tires will give you your answer. With a good set of snow tires you'll be unstoppable if you have the ground clearance. BTW 172k isn't high mileage for a Volvo, most go much higher with proper maintenance. Good luck with the car hunt...
  12. Parts are like any European car. Sometimes they are very expensive depending on the part
  13. Details about the car would help, like if it's auto or manual?
  14. Yes all the AWD parts from '00 cars are the same, except the trans and front axles.
  15. It's not the ETM it's the fuel pump check valve. If you prime the fuel line with the key in position 1, then try to start it I bet it starts right up. You can add a in-line check valve to resolve it or replace the fuel pump.
  16. V90

    Subaru's are great cars, especially with a turbo. My '11 Foz XT Touring was fully loaded with all the extras. I also added some basics like Cobb stage 1 tune, STI quad cat back, intake, wheels and sways. It can handle, was really fun and fast... The ground clearance made it unstoppable in 13" of snow with the stock Geolanders tires. The newer cars have the nice CVT trans compared to 4spd in mine. And the newer design low friction motor that had a lot of oil consumption issues when they first came out. I rented a '15 Foz NA with the CVT and loved it. I don't know much about the '17's but the only advice I'd give you is the OB is a big car and best with the 3.6 boxer. Going from the vR to the OB can be a shock, I was not impressed with my '11 Foz climate control compared to my '00R! The Touring trim is up there, it's adds a lot of nice upgrades, but it will never be on par with the Euros. And things like when you slam the door they don't thud, they are kinda tinny sounding. But the safety of these cars are on par. They are the "Volvo" of the Japanese car industry.
  17. So does anyone else own one on this board?
  18. LOL, the OG are def dying off/moving on. Only the hardcore are really there. But still those handful of folks are still better technically than any of the other sites I've been on. An example on c30crew someone asked about light weight wheels. The response was astounding, "light weight wheels wouldn't matter in the big picture since the car is so light weight anyway". Until someone chimed in about unspring mass. Even then some were still skeptical. WTF??? Some of the a$$hats on SS are like that too. Like the guy that argued with me that since Volvo doesn't recommend flushing your trans its a bad idea, because he's an "engineer"...
  19. Yeah and all the previous c30 posts are dead... I guess I'll have to keep this spot filled. I'm on c30Crew and SS but don't post much on SS even though it's the first forum I joined. I find the lack of knowledge to be a turnoff. I wish there was a group with the knowledge like VS which is my fav.
  20. So I'm in the market for a new daily hatch/coupe, but several folk on VS mentioned v40. I don't know much about them other than what I've read here since the merge... Here's what I wrote for my criteria "Need some advice for a used hatch/coupe for a commuter car. Looking to get a small 4 banger with good MPG and the ability to handle without much money being dropped into it. This is the main thing I want is a car to handle the turns. I want cheap, reliable and safe, doesn't have to be fast or have to be a hatch, but it does have to be AUTOMATIC! I don't want something too old that it's going to be another project. I'm looking on spending between $3-6K, but would prefer the lower end of the spectrum so I have some cash left over to put some minimal upgrades or repairs if needed, like stereo, swaybars, brakes, wheels. Not looking to make this an uncomfortable car to drive and something to take the potholes and have the ability to park in a small space." What do I need to look for and what is the best years (I'm assuming the last couple...) So educate me.
  21. Thanks guys. Took a couple cars for a test drive this weekend and wanted to keep it in the Volvo family but didn't want to buy another project. Sooooo, I pulled the trigger on a '11 c30 R design. It's a blast!
  22. Let us know what you've got. Several folks are in the DC area that could be interested in what you have to sell.
  23. I guess you're right, that's why they don't make saffron Jolly Ranchers...
  24. From my experience, the blue is overrated as it stains your rubber lines permanently and no matter how much flushing you do it will always come out blue. I would never use it again even if it was available. It was meant for racers that change fluid often. You are supposed to alternate between blue and amber to see when it's completely flushed. Most folks that want it is because of racecar... Stick with the amber, it's has the same performance capacities as the blue and is available everywhere for cheaper and won't stain your lines.
  25. For stock ride you want the Nivos with 27 as the ending numbers, 25 is the Euro lowered version and 26 is the taller version for the XC.