Joel Cadlolo

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About Joel Cadlolo

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    Seriously R

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  1. I check on it every now and then but there are barely any new posts. I kinda wonder if a P80 R group on facebook would get more traffic.
  2. You need to get your machinist making those to order! Beautiful looking bushings.
  3. On the hunt, it can be an issue at the pedal end. I'm getting intermittent codes at the moment, pointing to issues with the pedal. I did run a test in vida on the throttle body & it is well within tolerance.
  4. I can't see the head being more than 2 grand, with it all being professionally rebuilt, with new valve seals, etc. You aren't confident enough with removing the head yourself? You will save a lot of money.
  5. I have the car back. The voltage drop in the cable between the battery and the engine bay fuse box is around 0.01 volts. There is some light corrosion in the crimp connector, in the fuse box, but going off that voltage drop, I'd think it's fine. Is there a technique to testing it between the alternator & the battery? I can't for the life of me get my multimeter prong onto the positive terminal on the alternator.
  6. I'll check. Are there any write-ups on testing it, or is it just a simple case of measuring the resistance?
  7. I don't actually have the car at the moment (it's getting panel repair), so I can't measure anything. Another post just reminded me of the issue. Basically, even when running, the headlights and interior lighting will dim when using the power windows. The more windows I use, the more it dims. If it's just the ignition on, without the engine running, I can even hear the fuel pump slow down. For a while I assumed it was because the car's battery and voltage regulator were on the way out (and they both were), however it now has a fresh 160A (rather than the standard 120A) Bosch voltage regulator & a new Bosch battery and the issue is still there. It doesn't currently adversely affect the car's running but I'm concerned as to why there is so much current draw from the windows, or perhaps there is a grounding / other issue at play. The windows work fine, however the passenger (left) side is a bit slower than the rest.
  8. Try jumping / closing the main relay. The safest way to do it (in my opinion at least), because the current going through it is huge, is to remove it's plastic cover & manually shut the relay. Making a jumper is difficult as the spade connectors you would need would have to be about 15mm. If that works, the diode in it has likely fried. As a stop gap measure, until you can get a new relay, the diode can be removed and the relay will work. I should add that if you need to shut the relay, you can wedge a pin in there to keep it shut, for long enough to drive to get the parts / to test whether it works.
  9. Great thread, bumping for interest.