• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jjdavieshall

  • Rank
    Addicted to R

Previous Fields

  • My Cars
    '06 V70R, 98 V70 T5
  • Occupation
    Theatrical Stage Electrician, Stage Manager/TD.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    S F Peninsula
  • Interests
    Fast Touring Cars, Theatre and related technology, Home improvement DIY.
  1. Rain Squeal is noise when heat distortion in the factory Exhaust mount/shroud to deflect and touch the prop shaft. Extreme to heavy water on road way lets you enjoy that noise. Factory has a steel cable support kit to replace the support. . . lot of posts elsewhere on this.
  2. I find them quite useful. I have factory original that mutes music when in reverse, they call out obstacles at angle to rear of car or as you swing in to parking space and the sound rhythm remits as you move past that angle it perceive hedge, meter post, etc, you get used to that. Great on parallel parking to judge and not contact other car, etc. Will call out when the wife cuts behind the car to run into the garage (waiting or thinking option not available on spouse, or remains intermittent, I should say). Jim
  3. I am now officially in the 100K Mile Club. Added IPD Anti Sway Bars (Track spec), Wow, wonderful. Wife says it 'feels set down more" and "heavier, safer" which was a good take for her mechanical technical plane, and "feels like when it was new" which I said was not exactly the description of the result. This actually set slight oversteer, really flattens out any body roll and thereby increase traction on tires and generally makes the car more comfortable. Factory set up is neutral or mild understeer, which we all know is lawyer-liability and average driver factory tuning, not as nice as I'd liked, so, Happy Birthday to the car at 100,000 miles. Slight natural consequence of beefier anti sway bars is a little harsher on the small bumps, but suddenly the "Comfort" setting on the Continuosly Controlled Chassis Concept push button is no longer 'driving a melting marshmallow in a hot bath" but a useful setting for rough freeway or cut up city streets. A lot of fun, as I said. Always found this site informative and helpful, thanks every one. Don't think I understand the handle above JRL's avatar, his expertise and emphasis on reality have always been spot on. Maybe the implication is about pressure washing the p_ _ _ _ _ _ plural (omitted for political correctness) whom snivel in their posts? Happy Motoring, every one! JJ
  4. Well, all is good. Dealer did all under warranty, here are the parts used: Axle Shaft # 36000534-2 (Right Side) Axle Shaft # 36000519-3 Angle Gear # 36000340-4 Service Kit # 31256246-5 Transmission Oil and Hex and SEMS screws. Now 35,000 miles, no track racing or autocross, lots of heel and toe matching down shifts, no street 1/4 miles or signal light derbies. 2006 6 MT, I think it is a design issue on reliability. Putnam did not blink on changing it, did not need to call Dad (as Alex notes, the regional rep), and Putnam also says that they are aware that one does not pull on the axles when replacing them (thanks Doug, I followed up). They wound up using heat and boring a hole in the OEM collar gear in order to pull it with the second Volvo "special" pulling tool, as the first one broke. As for why all the collateral damage to Axle Shafts, probably duration of the collar gear being chipped free of teeth and those bits were the sabot in the mill gears. At any rate, it is better (like new) and I am enjoying the car again with out any Front Wheel Drive behavior like our 98 T5 and with out any clicks/noinks when clutch engaged-disengaged or when throttle varied at low speeds. Seems a shame on such a wonderful car that such a central issue would be this serious a problem. Maybe if it goes again they have a better fix, and maybe I'll be covered for that as I've VIP up to 100 thousand miles. Jim
  5. UPDATE Well, they got the collar gear off and installed the new and the new right drive shaft, would you believe that the new right drive shaft failed (at the CV joint ?) as they were test driving the reassembled car, in the exit driveway at Putnam. They had to push it back into the shop! I saw the car on the lift, the right wheel turns but the axle inboard of the CV joint does not. Axle still had stickers and new paint on it. So, all happened after the 2PM parts order cut off, they'll have the car till Tuesday now it seems. Weird, but good it is on Volvo's dime and in their driveway! Jim
  6. My dealer said that they are not allowed by Volvo to try the new model collar gear. On Tuesday they said that they are ordering the collar gear, and the right drive shaft, and other stuff. I did not catch all of the parts named. They said maybe the other "noink" I was hearing was the drive shaft for the right front. I did feel awfully left front drive, tended to pull that way. Apparently was worse than I thought for longer than I thought, have not tried breaking tracking in wet ( not very often wet) or any thing regularly to verify that AWD is working, but may want to do so in future. . . . . Also they've ordered a seat pan as my driver seat squeaks when I load up in the turns. They had tried to fix that on a few other "R"s and wound up at a seat pan replace, so they cut to the chase for me. I guess. Today they called and said that they broken their collar gear puller trying to get the gear off! Service advisor says collar gear is really fused on there!. Alex tells me that Volvo They expect the new puller tomorrow and will try again. If that fails they said they will order a new transmission! I've just been by to see the car. . . They are reluctant to heat the gear in order to remove it with the oil there. . . they've drilled a big hole in the collar gear and will try that work around and try with a new "puller" which is from Volvo. They did ask me if we go the transmission route should I want a new clutch at that time, since all is disassembled then. That is to their credit, certainly. 35,000 miles, I think I should. The mechanic suggested a Sachs clutch. I did not see a praise of that on some other reading on the forum. WOULD LIKE SOME FEEDBACK ON CLUTCH, factory or other makes. more grist for the collar gear mill, or is it spline shavings and spline bits, not grist? thanks every one,
  7. Alex, Do you have any follow up on that 30787669 collar gear being installed? I've apparently lost mine, as the front is scratchy traction like the T5 when I really get on it, and I've been hearing a "noink" for weeks perhaps in the middle of the car on mild and moderate throttle power application, clutch release and engage, etc.. I powered out of a turn from stand still last week and one front tire broke traction a lot, I thought it was perhaps from crossing the cross walk paint while applying power to take off while wheels turned. However, there seems to be increased front traction incidents and torque steering while getting on it. I'm taking it in next week, want to ask for the best. . . Thanks, Jim
  8. I was wondering when something like that might transpire. I've been hearing a new little "noink" from (apparently) the right rear, question if I might be angling towards bevel gear time. . .
  9. You might check out page 159 in the manual. Some recommend 5W-30 as easier circulation on start up. Synthetic resists cooking on turbo parts after shut down, degrades less than non synthetic. Mobil 1 is very popular, 5.8 qts. for an R, let the ambient temperature conditions in your area be your guide. Jim J
  10. Seeing beyond the low beams at hich speeds is a problem for me as well on mountain divided highways I still don't want to be in high beam, but don't want to slow down. On the color matching, the Bi-Xenon should be 4500-5000 degree Kelvin color temperature, but I don't know if there is a correction filtering in the glass. Simple Quartz Halogen lamp is usually 3200 to 3350 K. 4250 K is what the flat screen people tell us we perceive as white, and daylight sky is 5400 K. Metal Halide lights vary from 4800 to 6000 K, so you need to know what kind of source is in the "HID" lamps your talking about, because that is generic for High Intensity Discharge lamps, and the source and chemistry of the element can be several things. I have not been able to source the D2R Bi-Xenon for the R yet on a manufacture site and get the exact color temperature, but knowing the color temperature of your bulbs is how one would sort this question of matching to the eye. Hope this helps.
  11. Seeing beyond the low beams at hich speeds is a problem for me as well on mountain divided highways I still don't want to be in high beam, but don't want to slow down. On the color matching, the Bi-Xenon should be 4500-5000 degree Kelvin color temperature, but I don't know if there is an correction filtering in the glass. Simple Quartz Halogen is usually 3200 to 3350.
  12. yes, Alex , my sense of it is that a little excess or late throttle easing is where I got the pop, as in early or too quick clutch in, during moderate or mild acceleration as opposed to more vigorous acceleration. Again, more in my first week, before I got in sync with the car. Aah, but it seems so long ago! Have not driven the car (or another R) since July 5. . . JJ
  13. My recollection from driving the first 2231 miles in Europe is that the shift "pop" was something that occurred when you're a little late "off" the gas on a shift. When I got into the feel of the car a little more, I don't recall the noise occurring. 6MT, of course. I'm waiting with my tongue hanging out. Dealer says ETA 28th.
  14. What a wonderful bunch of roads out in the Garmisch Oberommergau BAVARIAN MOUNTAINS. We were up there Saturday, and chose a back road to come out from Linderhoff back to Fussen via Ruetell. Cool twisty bits and straights in the meadows, and Whoa, all closed for a bike race, and can't take the last bit over to the main road to Ruetell. Gee, I had to turn around and drive all that again in the opposite direction. Then on Monday, visiting an old friend in the Neckar Valley, nice twisty first gear hair pins on the back roads. Independence day spent with a friend in Stuttgart, and he tipped me to A81 to Wurzburg as less traffic to Frankfurt, and so my Fourth of July Magic Mettallic Blue firecracker managed 146 MPH several times before over taking traffic called for the binders. Very solid at speeds, and crossing bridge to pavement transitions, a little wiggle and instantly in the groove again, in the 135 mph range. Amazing CCCC, amazing shifting out of 5th at 120 plus, and so forth. What a delight! Many pretty and fast Audi's, some new ones with all LED tail lights, and so forth. Many a perplexed scowl as they and others yeilded the fast lane to a Volvo with those weird orange tourist or what ? truck plates?? Naturally, disciplined drivers make all the difference, but in my second week here, there were not many who set up on my bumper as I passed the trucks and the cue that had lined up to pass the trucks. So, baby tucked in with E H Harms GmbH at Frankfurt am Main for transport to Bremerhaven, and we are to return to San Francisco by air, and wait. . . Lovely trip, and wonderful experience!
  15. Alex, We're in Heidelberg today and tomorrow. I keep hitting traffic so I have not had much more than 120 MPH on the A7 north bound and on the A2, but, mountain motoring at some speed and lots of gear changing, mixed with tourist stretches on the Romantic Road, and got 22.3 MPG on the computer.drove around bu Garmish and the Linderhoff castle, Fussen for a few days. JJ