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  1. 3 points
    V70Rescue

    -2 reputation?

    I have no idea on how to find out. The only posts I have are this thread and probly 2 or 3 in 2015. Anything else is archived from what I can tell. I only ask questions, I'm no keyboard commando, I get along with everyone as far as I know but that -2 Poor Reputation is not fair without stating why. On other forums a persons feedback means whether your an honest guy that can be trusted to do business with. This I do not like and someone needs to prove I did something wrong or remove the negative remark.
  2. 3 points
    Fellow R enthusiasts, Installing new front struts (shock absorbers) is well within a competent DIY mechanic in the driveway. If you have the right tools, take your time, and follow common sense when compressing the suspension spring – this is a very rewarding repair. I highly recommend purchasing all the parts beforehand, including new nuts & bolts. If your spring seats or strut bearings are doubtful, replace them. You’ll want to avoid doing this again to replace a low cost part. Part recommendations Common consensus is to stick to Volvo genuine parts or better. Avoid cheap parts. Here’s an exploded diagram that will help with purchasing parts and re-assembly. Shock absorbers Item #13 - you have two options for the S60R/V70R: 1) purchase the Volvo part which costs about US$500-$600+ ea. - P/N 30683703 2) purchase the Monroe part approx. US$290 from RockAuto - P/N C2501 Monroe is the OEM supplier for Volvo. Both parts fit perfectly and have the correct connector lead and include a new top nut. Always replace shocks in pairs. Nuts & bolts Highly recommended that you purchase new nuts & bolt hardware. The nuts are self-locking which deform on tightening. If you look closely at the nut you’ll see the threaded section is slightly oval. Plus, they’re only a few bucks each. #4 - Strut bearing to suspension turret nuts (x6) - P/N 985868 (flange lock nut) #10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4) - P/N 982870 (flange screw) #11 - Strut to steering knuckle bolts (x4) - P/N 985660 (flange lock nut) Other parts if you need them #2 – Strut top washer (x2) - P/N 30647969 #3 – Cross nut (x2) - P/N 31262068 (fitting) #5 - Strut bearing (x2) - P/N 30714968 (support plate) #6 - Spring seat (x2) (use the ipd HD or Volvo XC90 spring seats) - P/N 112831 (ipd) - P/N 30683637 (Volvo XC90) #8 – Bump stop washer (x2) - P/N 31201386 (stop washer) #7 - Bump stop (x2) - P/N 30760914 (helper spring) #9 - Dust boot (x2) - P/N 30666850 (protection bellows) #14 – Plastic ABS sensor lead bracket - P/N 8646203 (bracket) Planning your work Seeing as the V70R suspension is similar to the 850 and Gen 1 cars, there are plenty of resources on the web: - Guide from Swedespeed with some pics - I followed the instructions in VIDA as they’re proven & work very well. You can download the PDF at the end of this post. Tools you will need Trolley jack & axle stands13, 18, 19, 21 & 22 mm ring spanners (box wrench) and/or socketsT40 Torx bitT50 Torx bit10mm socket & extension (1/4” drive is best)Vernier calipersGood quality spring compressorTorque wrench Tools to make life easier: Impact wrenchBreaker bar with 18 or 21 mm socketHammerPunch 6 mm (or 1/4")Punch 2 mm (or old drill bit)Small screw driverStringPliers with wire cutterOld wire coat hanger‘G’ clamp3 x 2” block of wood about 17” long Optional specialty tools: Set of Allen keys (hex keys) – metric or imperial, doesn't matterLoctite (always good practice)18, 21 & 22 mm crow foot wrench (allows correct torqueing of counter held nuts) Notes to VIDA instructions Differences in strut top nuts Factory fitted struts may use 21 mm SEMS nuts (combined nut & washer). Monroe OEM struts come with 22 mm lock nuts and separate washers. Having the right sized crowfoot wrench ensure you can correctly torque the top nut whilst counterholding the shock absorber shaft. The plastic covers for the strut top nuts will fit over the 22 mm nuts, but persuasion with a hammer is required. Levering the Lower Control Arm (LCA) If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted you may find it difficult to re-install the spring strut assembly. You’ll need to lever the control arm down, whilst attaching the steering knuckle, and re-inserting the bolts at the same time! Work instructions Preparation Chock the rear wheel, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support the front sub-frame on axle stands. Remove: :: the road wheel (19 mm socket) :: the anti-roll bar link from the spring strut (18 mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) Remove: :: the ABS sensor wire from the spring strut and move aside - be careful not to break the plastic clip, you’ll re-use this later :: the ABS sensor (10 mm socket) - hang up the sensor using a piece of wire :: the position sensor [accelerometer] from the spring strut - undo the bolt (10 mm socket) and move the position sensor aside Measuring camber Measure the spring strut position in relation to the wheel knuckle [spindle] before removal Note! The measurements are taken so that the same camber angle can be obtained when installing. See the illustration in the VIDA instruction PDF Tip: You can use the vernier calipers here - or - use a small Allen key to measure the inside gap between the strut and steering knuckle (like a feeler gauge). When re-assembling, slip the same size Allen key into gap to set the approximate camber. Removing the spring strut Remove: :: both the nuts from the screws in the spring strut - (18 & 21 mm ring spanner and/or sockets & breaker bar) :: the two bolts securing the spring strut to steering knuckle - (you’ll need a hammer & punch to tap out the bolt) Tip: Place a thick cloth over the CV boot to prevent damage in case the strut drops down onto the CV boot. Otherwise cut the bottom off a plastic soda bottle and cut the soda bottle lengthways so you can clip the soda bottle over the axle and CV boot for protection. Secure the wheel spindle with a piece of wire (coat hanger) so that it cannot turn outwards when removed from the spring strut. Otherwise you may damage the axle CV joints. Disconnect the 4C connector :: Loosen the 4C connector by the suspension turrets and the lead from the clips. :: Pull down the connector lead to the wheel housing. Tip: LH & RH 4C strut connector location (when facing the engine bay) - 3rd connector from the top - look for two wires, brown & black Use a small screwdriver to push in the retaining clip on the 4C connector. To facilitate re-assembly of the 4C strut wires: - tie a piece of string to the strut bar - tie the other end of the string to 4C strut connector you just removed - when the connector lead is unclipped and falls to the ground untie the string on the connector - use the string to pull the new connector lead to the top the engine bay Removing the strut bar does improve access to the connectors, but removal is not necessary. Remove: :: the nuts that hold the shock absorber bearing in the suspension turret x 3 pcs - (13 mm socket) :: the spring strut assembly from the vehicle Tip: Loosen, but leave 1 x nut closest to the fender attached to the strut bearing. This will stop the strut falling down awkwardly. When you’re ready to remove the strut assembly from the vehicle reach up and remove the last 13 mm nut. Carefully manoeuvre the strut assembly out of the wheel well, taking care to avoid the CV boot, brake hoses, and sensor wires. Ensure the steering knuckle doesn't flop around. Spring strut disassembly :: Pry off the plastic cap from the top of the spring strut assembly Removing the strut bearing Secure the spring strut in a vise (or lay the spring strut assembly down on a clear & flat surface. Remove: - the nut for the shock absorber bearing (21 mm ring spanner & T50 Torx) - the washer - the strut bearing Removing the spring - Attach your spring compressors Tip: Only use good quality spring compressors Make sure the spring compressors are spaced at 180 degrees from each other Ensure the spring compressor thread is well lubricated Tighten the spring compressors evenly Having an impact wrench saves time, but a ratchet will do the job You have compressed the spring enough when: - you can move the spring seat - the spring has lifted off the shock absorber Remove: - the cross shaped fixing nut on the shock absorber (T50 Torx as a counter hold and hammer will undo the cross nut) - the rubber spring seat - the spring - the rubber bump stop and dust boot (gaiter) Check that the strut bearing plate, the spring seat, the rubber bump stop with boot are undamaged. Replace if necessary. Spring strut re-assembly Remove the ABS sensor cable clip from the old shock absorber. - note the ABS sensor cable clip is secured by 2 x expanding plastic rivets (image from Howards Volvo site) - carefully punch out the plastic center pins using the 2 mm punch - retain both plastic center pins - remove the cable clip from the old shock absorber and transfer to the new one - insert the plastic center pins and tap in until they are flush Tip: If you break the expanding plastic rivets, you can use pop rivets to fix the cable clip to the new strut Installing the spring Compress the new spring to a length of approx. 260 mm (if you've compressed the spring sufficiently for disassembly – you should be OK) Install: - the bump stop with the boot - the spring - the upper spring seat - the fixing nut [cross nut] - tighten the cross nut to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: Make sure the spring is seated correctly in the shock absorber and upper spring seat If you don’t have the special cross nut socket (e.g. ipd version) - apply Loctite to the cross nut - use the Torx T50 as a counter hold - tighten the nut securely using either; a small ring spanner, channel locks pipe wrench or even a few ‘love taps’ with a hammer If you have installed spring seat correctly and torqued the cross nut properly you won’t have to re-tighten the cross nut later on Installing the shock absorber bearing Install: - the strut bearing [support plate] - the washer - the top nut and tighten to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: To ensure the right torque, use a 22 mm crowfoot spanner on your torque wrench and Torx T50 as a counter hold Otherwise tighten with a 22 mm ring spanner and Torx T50 Re-installing the spring strut - Fit the spring strut in the suspension turret with new nuts x 3 pcs - Tighten to 25 Nm (19 ft.lbs) - Pull up the shock absorber’s connector lead in the engine compartment and plug in the connector by the suspension turret. (this is where the string comes in handy) Fit the 4C connector lead in the clips Install the spring strut on the stub axle. Use new bolts and new nuts. Tip: When re-installing the strut assembly, it’s easier to install, but don’t fully tighten, the 3 x nuts in the suspension turret – as this allows some wriggle room when installing the steering knuckle bolts. If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted (especially the rear LCA bushings) you may require extra force to lever the control arm down to make room for the strut. This can be challenging with one person. To make life easier: - Protect the CV boot with a thick cloth or plastic soda bottle - Using the G clamp, fix the piece of wood to the control arm as shown below - You can then use your foot to force the control arm down whilst connecting the steering knuckle to the strut - Jiggle the control arm and strut whilst inserting the bolts Adjust the spring strut and stub axle to the measured value. Note! Ensure that measurement is performed at same points as when removing. Tip: Tighten the strut bolts snugly, but do not fully tighten Use vernier callipers to check the measurement, or use the Allen key method Tighten the screws to 105 Nm (75 ft.lbs) and further angle tighten 60 degrees Final re-installation Install: :: the position sensor - the bolt for the position sensor (10mm socket) - tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) :: the anti-roll bar link to the spring strut - re-install the nut (18mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) - tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs) :: the ABS sensor - re-install the bolt (10mm socket) - tighten the ABS sensor bolt to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) Note! Ensure that the ABS sensor seat in the stub axle is absolutely clean. :: the road wheel - re-install the lug nuts (19 mm socket) - tighten to 140 Nm (103 ft.lbs) Lower the car to the ground and perform a SUM calibration. Also get a wheel alignment after SUM calibration. That’s it! If I can do it, so can you. Cheers, Trent Front Strut.pdf
  3. 3 points
    NChoy

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    Here's some pics of the installed custom upper control arm bushings. I had three sets made, one for me, the other two for Will and Hussein. When all this is said and done we will be the only 3 V70Rs in the world with this type of system. Specs: the bushings are milled using UHMW, which is a harder compound than Delrin. The sleeves are hardened steel. Here's a few pics... All four: DSC_1251 by Nick Choy, on Flickr Upper control arm bushing #1: DSC_1253 by Nick Choy, on Flickr Upper control arm bushing #2: DSC_1255 by Nick Choy, on Flickr #1 installed (this one went in easy!): DSC_0208 by Nick Choy, on Flickr #2 installed (this one was a real PITA!): DSC_0209 by Nick Choy, on Flickr Had to make this little guy in order to help "seat" bushing #2: DSC_0204 by Nick Choy, on Flickr Here's the process, using sockets as spacers: DSC_0200 by Nick Choy, on Flickr
  4. 2 points
    NChoy

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    Hey Will... remember those mystery upper LCA bushings that we couldn't find in poly? Well, look what I found! You can get them here: http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=760-960-series-multilink-mk1-pu-bushings-rear-suspension-prt
  5. 2 points
    Well my son's S40 made it through emission testing today, woo hoo!
  6. 2 points
    flyfishing3

    1998 V70R Mechanics Special $300 obo

    Told you I alerted the right people.
  7. 2 points
    33647_1450202331

    S/V40 Sway Bars

    Riding on KWs be like
  8. 2 points
    NEU

    What did you do your X40 today?

    All the p80's have the cooling duct, not just ME7 cars. And if you are using your original TCV I'd maybe get another or go for the upgrade. The OEM TCV is good new but they fail fast. They are cheap enough to not worry about breaking the back IIRC $30? Or upgrade to something that can take more abuse like the HD TCV on the Porsche or Delco or MAC valves (IPD, SNAAB, etc...) Delcos are cheap ($40) and last for a good long while, mines been running good for the past 8yrs, you just have to get a Delco plug and Bosch plug to make an adaptor
  9. 2 points
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Been doing some serious "tweaking" on the s40 took down an LS Camaro with mods earlier this morning
  10. 2 points
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Threw a tree on it
  11. 2 points
    Phixion

    2001 V40 1.9T Buying information

    I can't speak for the wagon, but when I had my 2001 S40 sedan, I got up to 31.5mpg on long distance trips. Most of the time I was around 26-27mpg on a daily 45 mile one-way commute. One thing to bear in mind is that many of us on here probably hop up the car to some degree, which means we're seeking performance and thus mileage will decrease naturally as the throttle is pressed harder. But for normal driving, the high 20s is very possible.
  12. 2 points
    MattyXXL

    The Volvospeed is dead thread

    I going to send chuck a server 2012 for dummies book for Christmas.
  13. 2 points
    crusty old and ornery

    Downpipe revisited

    Downpipe build revisited In the spring of 2006, jgray posted a "How To" to build a 3" stainless downpipe. Having built two of these now, I would like to repost and update this how to. Please read through all of this before ordering parts or commencing work. I have attached jgrays' original write up to this post, as I have drawn heavily from it and as the innovator and father of this, he deserves much credit. More pictures are coming. I wanted to get this up. Here is a list of parts that I used to build this exhaust system. I added to the downpipe from the original post, to include the balance of the exhaust. The 4" long 3" diameter flex coupler is the interlocking type and this time I purchased this from Verocious. The first time I bought it off fleabay and it was the interlocking type. I did not find any of this style flex coupler there this time, but if you are patient, you might. I wasn't and Verocious filled the need. I do not include a part number for: The CAT. The original cat shown in jgrays writeup is a bullet design . There are members in this forum who will tell you that the $50 cats from fleabay won't last a year. I've seen them last 2, and was replaced not because it failed, but becase the downpipe was replaced. Your mileage may vary. Flange. There is no way around it. This one must be manufactured. I have not found one prefab to fit our TD04 turbo. Ideally, the flange will not only fit the turbo outer dimensions, but will be counter bored to form a gas seal on the turbo side, and counter bored to fit the 3" mandrel bend on the pipe side. The flange dimensions are posted, but the counter bore dimensions are not listed. Discuss this with your machinist. Stainless V-band clamp – 2.5” Many on the market. Let your conscious or wallet be your guide. For this write up, the CAT is flanged and bolted.. You may wish to weld the CAT directly on. This solution as is adds expense and a pair of joints that can leak, but worth it should you need to change a CAT. A simpler solution is to just weld it on. Your downpipe, your option. A few words of warning. I have visited the service departments at two dealerships with this downpipe installed. They had a fit. With the bullet cat installed, they immediately, without inspection or reservation, declare that the exhaust has to go, there is no cat, it is illegal..... Here in the US, the law says that there must be a catylitic converter installed. In some areas, they perform a sniffer test to ensure that your car is not contaminating the environment with undesired gasses and of course in California, your CAT must have a CARB number or you can just forget it. The S40 is OBDII which means that the CAT MUST be OBDII compliant. If your aim is to simply build the downpipe, I have included the original parts list as well. If you are going racing and the vehicle is for competition only, (and not to be driven on the street) then disregard the CAT info and drive on. I will not post the EPA regulation here. It is easy to find. Do a google search for it and read it, you'll be glad you did. As long your car passes emissions testing and you have not altered the function of the exhaust (removed the emissions controls) you can tell the dealer to stuff it. Well,..... tactfully...... Lastly a word about safety. I will state what should be obvious to everyone, but for the record.... When working under a vehicle on a project such as this, the vehicle should be well supported on a lift or jack stands, never solely on a hydraulic jack and absolutely never on a scissors jack (which are good for changing a tire on the side of the road - sometimes). Block the tires that remain on the ground and don't work on a hot exhaust system to avoid burning yourself. Downpipe design: This is a fairly straight forward design. Once upon a time anti-reversion tubes were the rage. The performance gain here is debatable. I have done no research on this and will not likely do so in the future. If you have the motivation to do so, please add your input after you have installed one - with before and after dyno results. Construction: 304 stainless is used throughout, save for the bung plug. In my humble opinion, TIG welding is the only option on stainless, but that is only my opinion. All pieces should be tack welded together prior to final welding to ensure correct fit. Now, on to the meat of the matter! With the vehicle raised and supported, you will want to remove the stock exhaust system. Chiefly this is done by removing the heat shield at the rear of the engine over the exhaust manifold, removing the turkey pan, removing the two oxygen sensors, and then removing the three nuts at the turbo that hold the OEM CAT in place. After that, separate it from the other half of the exhaust and then the exhaust hangers underneath the vehicle. The order of operations here is optional. You may want to remove the heat shield, turkey pan, O2 sensors and loosen the turbo nuts with the vehicle on the ground to save your back and then raise the car to do the underneath work. Now, fit up the flange at the turbo and place the upper 90 degree elbow (90 degree pipe, no leg) and mark its' position on the flange and the pipe. Mark the position of the turbo studs on the pipe. The stock installation nuts will not quite fit here now. You have two options. Find smaller nuts of the correct thread pitch or custom dent the the 90 degree elbow to clear the nuts. You'll have to work this out for yourself. I dented mine preweld. Next take a moment to locate where you want to install the two upper bungs - one for O2 sensor #1, and one for a wideband or for future use. This second upper bung is optional and if installed, is plugged when not in use. Drill out the holes for the upper bungs, weld in the bungs and then weld the upper 90 degree pipe to the flange. Weld on the 4" flex coupler Cut the 90 degree pipe (short leg) to fit. This is the height adjustment to get the pipe up out of the way - ground clearance - but still keep it away from the chassis. On my first downpipe, I did not cut this at all and occasionally I would scrape the pipe on bumps and obstructions. This time I chose to cut away 2". If you choose to cut it, do so carefully so as to maintain square. A short piece of 3" straight tubing cut from the two foot stock - roughly 4 3/8" long. This is to clear the chassis before arching up and over with the two 45 degree pieces. Your dimension may differ here. 45 degree no leg. 45 degree no leg - These two 45 degree bends get you lined up with the stock exhaust. The stainless exhaust hanger goes here. You will need to line this up and tack weld by eye. 3” stainless pipe Flanged CAT assembly This is the cat with a short piece of 3" tube welded on the downstream end 3" piping The bung for the second O2 sensor is welded here. Use the O2 sensor extension cable here. This is the most dealer/emissions tester/ECM module friendly option, but adds the expense of the extender cable, the trouble of routing it and installation considerations on how to mount it so it won't get damaged. Summit racing offers 24 and 36 inch extension cables. Volvo offers a 10" in extension and the prices are all competitive (shock!) or rather, Summits 36" extension cable and Volvos 10" extension cable are roughly the same price. 10” will work fine. Reducer to 2.5" 2.5" tubing to vband clamp Stock 2.5” exhaust. I picked up a stock center muffler exhaust piece (which extends over the right rear control arm to connect to the (HORRORS!!) stock muffler with a new gasket. I cut this piece short to eliminate the center muffler and allow for extended 3” stainless after the CAT. How-To BUILD A .pdf
  14. 2 points
    survolvo

    The Volvospeed is dead thread

    It might come back, but will never recover. VS as we know it, is a thing of the past. As with everything else, I am angry and bitter™ about that. He is vomiting and squirting diarrhea all over the place while working out in the gym so he can look tough while revving his engine at people.
  15. 2 points
    xcites40

    The Volvospeed is dead thread

    Not sure what Timmy (timbo slice) would do since vs is dead and chipotle is serving E-coli http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2015/10/e_coli_sickens_at_least_22_peo.html#incart_breaking
  16. 2 points
    xcites40

    The Volvospeed is dead thread

    Chuck is probally doing inventory of his firearm and accidently shoot into the server rack.
  17. 2 points
    mattb

    RHD HEADLIGHT

    Group texts are still an issue, it's just now starting to get back to normal. Valerian: the forum is mostly US based users, with some Aussies and Brits as well. Je suis Francais, aux US. Je contacte un ami Américain qui habite en Allemagne et je t'envois ca. Il a un contact en Suede qu'il utilise pour acheter des boites de vitesse et autres pieces rares. Mike, I was thinking that Big Will may be able to help with his wrecker connection in Sweden. He's in Berlin now but should have the guy's contact info.
  18. 2 points
    NChoy

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    Parts all painted up nice, to match the red on the engine block... DSC_0585 Rear hubs all painted up with new bushings... DSC_0588 Control arms, driveline, hubs installed... DSC_0592 New toe bars (thanks JC!) DSC_0595 Yes, that's a P2 angle gear vent and filter: DSC_0597 Toe bars installed: DSC_0600 Entire subframe assembly together, waiting to go in: DSC_0634 Another angle: DSC_0636
  19. 2 points
    NChoy

    Let the games begin...

    Work began yesterday afternoon, and continued late into the night... then picked up again this morning and went till around 6pm. I'm tired and sore. As of 9pm on Saturday, here's what's left: Pull the lower control arms, axle shafts and hub assemblies, angle gear and power steering/alternator/AC compressor. Plan to have the motor/trans/subframe out next Saturday. Sundry manual conversion parts on order with the V-Shop. M66 sitting in the garage ready to go. H-beam rods on order from RSI... should be here next week. Block goes in for hot tank cleaning and rod installation. Crank will be polished, and entire block (pulley to flywheel will be balanced). Also in the plan: Unorthodox Racing underdrive main pulley, 340/80 wastegate actuator, Extrude-Hone intake manifold, B&M short shifter, Spec Stage-3 clutch, Heico foot pedals & shift knob. Will keep you all posted. Self-imposed deadline is one week before the IPD Garage Sale (May 16).
  20. 2 points
    NChoy

    Let the games begin...

    Rear suspension bits are back from the powdercoating shop. Time to start installing bushings! DSC_0347 Let's start with this one! Notice how I have to use all kinds of large sockets to get them to go in. (that's a head bolt by the way)... DSC_0348 Set of custom bushings made by my machinist. All other bushings are off-shelf poly for 240 and 740 applications, believe it or not! DSC_1251 Installed: DSC_0208 Had to use this specially made tool to install the smaller bushings: DSC_0204 Like so: DSC_0200
  21. 2 points
    Diio

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Did buy a Clutch kit today for ~8 dollars , dont think the seller was to happy ^^ auction ftw!
  22. 2 points
    NEU

    Headlights dim when using power windows.

    How's the B+ cable coming off the alternator? Also look at chassis ground connections too. I added a new battery cable that goes straight to the battery off the alternator and bypasses the starter. I had corrosion around the starter connection but the rest of it was fine. That was enough to give me the same issue with the windows and my dash and cabin lights would flicker at night.
  23. 2 points
    ConorV70R

    New Heico's

    So finally got my set of Heico's back from the machine shop and got them on the car. I ended up being extremely happy with the look on the car.
  24. 2 points
    Bdub

    You don't see this everyday

    Well, my friend Josh came down from Seattle and bought the Saffron today. This car was as advertised- just immaculate inside and out. I got an opportunity to drive it, and this is the quietest, tightest P80 car I've ever driven, period. It did have some rust underneath, but really nothing terrible and certainly less than what I was suspecting from an Illinois car. I don't think it saw many winters. The guy who sold it to my friend clearly bought this car at auction, replaced the transmission and flipped it. He didn't budge on the price but I probably wouldn't have, either. Guy claimed he had two site-unseen offers at full asking price, one from Jersey and one from Florida. Not sure if he was embellishing this, but it wouldn't surprise me if he was being truthful. Anyway, the car went to a good enthusiast home and better yet, I'll get to see it regularly! I can't believe someone neg'd my original post!?$@$&. I thought I'd share an extremely rare car with some fellow enthusiasts. I do apologize if this ruffled someone's feathers. Here are some crappy iPhone pics I snapped:
  25. 2 points
    Big Will

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    Little update: My spare rear suspension parts went from this: To this: Most of the parts were powder-coated black. I primered and painted the rear axles with a Rustoleum cast-iron color engine enamel. You'll see one side of one is already painted black as it was brand new whereas the other needed a little glass bead blasting. The toe bars I did in a BMW Mystic Blue Metallic as I had a rattle can of that leftover. I have all of the bushings and an extra set of rear spindles that are clean and painted. At some point I'll have enough time to actually install this stuff.
  26. 2 points
    FIREBOLT

    98 S40 T4

    New wheels fitted, need to fit my Kw's now.
  27. 2 points
    Bdub

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    You know, you can be a real jerk, Will. Here I was, enjoying a 3-day weekend, having a beer, watching my boys play in the yard... And then I see this. And now I am reminded of exactly what I've been putting off thinking about for years. Seriously, everyone on this forum owes you a frosty cold pint of beer. Tremendously concise, thorough explanation and breakdown of the rear suspension bushings. Above and beyond with the part numbers and application cross-over information you provided. When I'm back at work next week I'll see what I can do about tracking down some of the missing mystery pieces and also do my best to inquire about working with our vendors in regard to poly substitutes. Awesome work, and thanks for the inspiration to tackle a not very fun job. I equate it to the friend who encourages you to have your prostate examined... You know you've been meaning to do it, but is not anything you've been looking forward to. :)
  28. 2 points
    ARD - Lucky

    I Suppose its About Time.... (2000VR/M66)

    Hello all, thought I'd make a note of the finalization with regard to the software and tuning on this project. Firstly I must commend both the OP and the shop that did the work, the car is really top notch in both appearance and function. Very well put together with consideration and attention to detail on everything from stage 0 to wastegate adjustment. The main goal in tuning, with regard to the 6 speed manual trans swap, is to provide a smooth application of torque throughout the rev range. While this may sound rudimentary the 'slack' that is inherent in both the trans and drivetrain can cause a 'trailer hitching' feeling if the power development is not smoothed accordingly. This comes as a function of both torque limitation and the difference between auto to manual primary timing maps. Even though the 6 speed manual M66 is quite robust there is still concern around putting too much power through the torque tube and rear end, so the torque limitation strategy is still retained although considerably reduced and recurved. This adjustment was done remotely at first but fine tuned once I arrived on site and was able to tune the car live time. Since the M66 was not equipped in this chassis stateside and overseas versions used considerably different timing profiles there wasn't a real pattern car to model the work after. So much of what was done had to be done via a flight recorded and then review the data comparatively to what the ECU was providing vs. what we were asking for. As for timing map: An auto trans has a fluid connection between the engine and transmission while the manual trans has a mechanical connection. This in turn loads the engine differently one trans to the other. With a different load profile comes a different timing profile. Loading via the 6 speed manual is similar enough to a 5 speed manual that we were able to start with M58 AWD timing maps however again these were Euro spec so it wasn't spot on, but better to have something to start with vs. nothing. It took about 8-10 map iterations until we achieved a good match of smooth power delivery and healthy midrange and top end power output. An engine that is too 'punchy' can be un-enjoyable to drive and create this 'trailer hitching' feeling that most folks dislike. Curving the timing map to provide some smoothing (beyond load request smoothing) was really the last piece of the puzzle. As adaptations learn further any remaining rough edges should smooth out nicely. I'm writing this only 2 days after my return from tuning the car so some further miles will provide additional feedback from the OP. Any questions and I'll be happy to answer
  29. 2 points
    This seems to be the best product with the most demand. I'll see if I can get under the VR this week to get templates made for the brackets. Brad
  30. 2 points
    So here are my ideas that I have for awd V70. First is a bolt on bracket that allows the use of two bold style front control arms on our four bolt cars. You could probably also use early 850 arms that have replaceable ball joints and bushings as well. Also it would allow the use of Ben's super rad adjustable control arms if you want to go that route. The reason I think that it would be worth switching to the two bolt style is that with the four bolters you can not compensate for lowering your car by waiting top tighten your control arm bolts when the car is at its static ride height. Some call this preloading your bushings, in reality it is actually the opposite. In order for your bushings to last as long as possible you need to have them under compression as little as possible, for instance only when the strut is moving up or down from its static position. The four bolt arms are fix to keep the bushings unloaded at factory ride height, so when you lower the car you are keeping them in a constant state of compression and shortening their life dramatically. I have seen many posts where people are complaining that the aftermarket replacement arms have worn out after only a few years of being on the car and I can't help but wonder how much of this is due to the inability to tighten the bushings at static ride height. Second would be a rear upper control arm that would have camber adjustment and a corresponding adjustable toe rod to get the alignment to spec after lowering the awd cars. The stuff I make is no where as nice as Kaplhenke Racing parts, but it is also not as costly. I have done several small group buy type of parts runs for Nissan 240sx suspension parts and Datsun 510 stuff as well that I can link to the threads to show people that I have done this stuff before and people were happy with the product. Here are some pictures of my previous projects. Nissan 240sx TC rods Datsun 510 TC rods Fully adjustable 240sx coilovers fitted to my 510 240sx toe and traction arms Volvo 940 turbo Front control arm spherical bearing retrofit and TC rod 940 adjustable panhard bar Here is my 945 Before After
  31. 2 points
    Ihatespeedbumps

    P2 AWD "Collar" gear analysis

    I would make sure the new axle was installed all the way in the trans. The AWD models can get a bit of rusty buildup which may prohibit the axle from seating properly inside the trans. Typically dip the end of the axle in ATF to facilitate installation. Have you removed the axle to see if anything looks unusual? The collar gear does not affect the front wheels at all. BTW... Welcome to the forum
  32. 2 points
    300+_T5R_855

    Got Camber?

    Another purchaser has attempted to install the arms with the same results. Any of those who purchased the arms please return them for a refund or credit toward another product. My apologies, what a nightmare.
  33. 2 points
    much better. makes me want to post whore.
  34. 2 points
    Che_Moderator

    NEW OWNER of V70R and S60R

    I don't think so, but feel free to quote me on that.
  35. 2 points
    mattb

    NEW OWNER of V70R and S60R

    Sign #56 that you're not aging gracefully: you start repeating yourself..
  36. 1 point
    volvotosor

    My V70R awd 99'

    Yes there are beautiful roads here, I have done it for you
  37. 1 point
    xcites40

    BBS Crater Wheels 16x7

    They come standard on LSE package.
  38. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    I'm buying stock in Elmer's.... You guys 😔
  39. 1 point
    1clean00

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Either way should be fine though. I'm using a Porsche TCV on the T5
  40. 1 point
    1clean00

    intake and exhaust manifold porting, TB

    That is sweet, but unless the intake is matched as well, it won't do much.
  41. 1 point
    Diio

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Did change clutch, flexplate, slave cylinder and sealing ring on the block also did it alone :/
  42. 1 point
    1clean00

    BOV

    The s/v40 has a compressor bypass valve that recirculates the excess pressure back into the intake. On an automatic car a blow off valve is unnecessary. You'd be better off going with a higher duty CBV, like Forge or Kinugawa...http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawabilletadjustablemitsubishiturboblowoffvalvebovvolvosrt-4gm.aspx
  43. 1 point
    Fatts

    1999 V70R Driveline insanity Please Help!

    https://youtu.be/i_En_Wq3POc I found the source:(
  44. 1 point
    FIREBOLT

    What did you do your X40 today?

    I ordered new strut top mounts, drop links & caliper bolts today. Can get my Kw's on & my BBk using Citroen Crosser calipers fitted.
  45. 1 point
    Diio

    What did you do your X40 today?

    wow .. thats a big hole you got there teekay xD
  46. 1 point
    1clean00

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Found bad tie-rod end...this one was a meyle hd from fcp, didn't even last a year.... replaced with new tie-rod end....GF picked the new one up from work (she works for AdvanceAuto/Carquest/Worldpac ;-) This one is branded Sankei 555, japanese part, seems to be really solid so far.... Also, tracked down some squealing that i thought was front end (suspected brakes), ended up being a frozen rear caliper, totally stuck, so it's getting swapped, and then next week new stainless steel goodridge brake lines going on and a brake system flush.
  47. 1 point
    Greetings from Chicago - ONE MILLION DOLLARS to the first person willing to part with their Helias
  48. 1 point
    If you make up some rear lower shock mounts to replace the Nivos with FWD rear shocks I'm sure you'd sell them. No need to make them out of expensive material or have them CNC machined either. Make it low cost and you'll sell them.
  49. 1 point
    tcode

    My T4

    1000€. The material is 316 SS, 3mm thick with one pass full penetration TIG welds. I really don't expect it to crack ever . Everything is carefully designed to maximize the flow and the engine performs very well even in a vacuum. It has much more torque in vaccum than my 1.8 n/a Civic with much higher CR and variable cams. Thanks guys, I'll share the proggress with you as always did .
  50. 1 point
    AlexD

    P2 AWD "Collar" gear analysis

    So the final verdict is in. In essence the new collar gear / spline gear that FEO sent was identical to the old one. The part is made of manganese steel which is typically used in applications that require high ductility ("bendyness") and impact resistance. As before, this seems an odd materials choice for the application to start with. Transmission parts of this sort are usually rated in terms of hardness using the Rockwell scales. Specifically, most gears for this type of application are on the "C" scale, usually in the middle. This part didn't even rank on the C scale and both the old and new part ranked at 60 A. Here's it straight from teh horse's mouth "They are about 60 Rockwell A scale (HRA). This is pretty soft. The hardness of most hardened steel and other hard alloys start just above this hardness level. We usually use the Rockwell C scale (HRC) for heat treated steel (quenched and tempered). Typical hardness of average material of this type is in the 30 to 40 HRC range. (Equivalent to 65 to 70 HRA) The A scale ranges from 20 to 92 HRA." In English this means that they expected a part of this nature to be hardened steel, which is more normal for gear types and links in transmissions, but this didn't even manage to rank on the scale used to rate the hardness of tempered steel. I.e. it's soft metal. As far as hardening the part, it is just not possible. I asked why and was sent the picture below. This is a picture of the crystalline structure of the metal itself. The steel crystals (yes, steel is actually a crystal) are the dark sections and the alloy section is the lighter coloured material. The alloy used in this part is not hardenable but the steel is. However, this would not yield an improvement overall since there is such a high percentage of alloy materials in the part. It was explained to me like this "It's like putting marbles in play-doh, you can make the marbles as hard as you want, but if you can't change the play-doh it will still fall apart just the same." So if the part was more steel than "play-doh" then we could harden, but as it is we can't. On to the next part! Old part, 100X Old part 250X New part 100X New part 250X