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  1. 3 points
    V70Rescue

    -2 reputation?

    I have no idea on how to find out. The only posts I have are this thread and probly 2 or 3 in 2015. Anything else is archived from what I can tell. I only ask questions, I'm no keyboard commando, I get along with everyone as far as I know but that -2 Poor Reputation is not fair without stating why. On other forums a persons feedback means whether your an honest guy that can be trusted to do business with. This I do not like and someone needs to prove I did something wrong or remove the negative remark.
  2. 3 points
    Fellow R enthusiasts, Installing new front struts (shock absorbers) is well within a competent DIY mechanic in the driveway. If you have the right tools, take your time, and follow common sense when compressing the suspension spring – this is a very rewarding repair. I highly recommend purchasing all the parts beforehand, including new nuts & bolts. If your spring seats or strut bearings are doubtful, replace them. You’ll want to avoid doing this again to replace a low cost part. Part recommendations Common consensus is to stick to Volvo genuine parts or better. Avoid cheap parts. Here’s an exploded diagram that will help with purchasing parts and re-assembly. Shock absorbers Item #13 - you have two options for the S60R/V70R: 1) purchase the Volvo part which costs about US$500-$600+ ea. - P/N 30683703 2) purchase the Monroe part approx. US$290 from RockAuto - P/N C2501 Monroe is the OEM supplier for Volvo. Both parts fit perfectly and have the correct connector lead and include a new top nut. Always replace shocks in pairs. Nuts & bolts Highly recommended that you purchase new nuts & bolt hardware. The nuts are self-locking which deform on tightening. If you look closely at the nut you’ll see the threaded section is slightly oval. Plus, they’re only a few bucks each. #4 - Strut bearing to suspension turret nuts (x6) - P/N 985868 (flange lock nut) #10 - Strut to steering knuckle nuts (x4) - P/N 982870 (flange screw) #11 - Strut to steering knuckle bolts (x4) - P/N 985660 (flange lock nut) Other parts if you need them #2 – Strut top washer (x2) - P/N 30647969 #3 – Cross nut (x2) - P/N 31262068 (fitting) #5 - Strut bearing (x2) - P/N 30714968 (support plate) #6 - Spring seat (x2) (use the ipd HD or Volvo XC90 spring seats) - P/N 112831 (ipd) - P/N 30683637 (Volvo XC90) #8 – Bump stop washer (x2) - P/N 31201386 (stop washer) #7 - Bump stop (x2) - P/N 30760914 (helper spring) #9 - Dust boot (x2) - P/N 30666850 (protection bellows) #14 – Plastic ABS sensor lead bracket - P/N 8646203 (bracket) Planning your work Seeing as the V70R suspension is similar to the 850 and Gen 1 cars, there are plenty of resources on the web: - Guide from Swedespeed with some pics - I followed the instructions in VIDA as they’re proven & work very well. You can download the PDF at the end of this post. Tools you will need Trolley jack & axle stands13, 18, 19, 21 & 22 mm ring spanners (box wrench) and/or socketsT40 Torx bitT50 Torx bit10mm socket & extension (1/4” drive is best)Vernier calipersGood quality spring compressorTorque wrench Tools to make life easier: Impact wrenchBreaker bar with 18 or 21 mm socketHammerPunch 6 mm (or 1/4")Punch 2 mm (or old drill bit)Small screw driverStringPliers with wire cutterOld wire coat hanger‘G’ clamp3 x 2” block of wood about 17” long Optional specialty tools: Set of Allen keys (hex keys) – metric or imperial, doesn't matterLoctite (always good practice)18, 21 & 22 mm crow foot wrench (allows correct torqueing of counter held nuts) Notes to VIDA instructions Differences in strut top nuts Factory fitted struts may use 21 mm SEMS nuts (combined nut & washer). Monroe OEM struts come with 22 mm lock nuts and separate washers. Having the right sized crowfoot wrench ensure you can correctly torque the top nut whilst counterholding the shock absorber shaft. The plastic covers for the strut top nuts will fit over the 22 mm nuts, but persuasion with a hammer is required. Levering the Lower Control Arm (LCA) If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted you may find it difficult to re-install the spring strut assembly. You’ll need to lever the control arm down, whilst attaching the steering knuckle, and re-inserting the bolts at the same time! Work instructions Preparation Chock the rear wheel, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support the front sub-frame on axle stands. Remove: :: the road wheel (19 mm socket) :: the anti-roll bar link from the spring strut (18 mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) Remove: :: the ABS sensor wire from the spring strut and move aside - be careful not to break the plastic clip, you’ll re-use this later :: the ABS sensor (10 mm socket) - hang up the sensor using a piece of wire :: the position sensor [accelerometer] from the spring strut - undo the bolt (10 mm socket) and move the position sensor aside Measuring camber Measure the spring strut position in relation to the wheel knuckle [spindle] before removal Note! The measurements are taken so that the same camber angle can be obtained when installing. See the illustration in the VIDA instruction PDF Tip: You can use the vernier calipers here - or - use a small Allen key to measure the inside gap between the strut and steering knuckle (like a feeler gauge). When re-assembling, slip the same size Allen key into gap to set the approximate camber. Removing the spring strut Remove: :: both the nuts from the screws in the spring strut - (18 & 21 mm ring spanner and/or sockets & breaker bar) :: the two bolts securing the spring strut to steering knuckle - (you’ll need a hammer & punch to tap out the bolt) Tip: Place a thick cloth over the CV boot to prevent damage in case the strut drops down onto the CV boot. Otherwise cut the bottom off a plastic soda bottle and cut the soda bottle lengthways so you can clip the soda bottle over the axle and CV boot for protection. Secure the wheel spindle with a piece of wire (coat hanger) so that it cannot turn outwards when removed from the spring strut. Otherwise you may damage the axle CV joints. Disconnect the 4C connector :: Loosen the 4C connector by the suspension turrets and the lead from the clips. :: Pull down the connector lead to the wheel housing. Tip: LH & RH 4C strut connector location (when facing the engine bay) - 3rd connector from the top - look for two wires, brown & black Use a small screwdriver to push in the retaining clip on the 4C connector. To facilitate re-assembly of the 4C strut wires: - tie a piece of string to the strut bar - tie the other end of the string to 4C strut connector you just removed - when the connector lead is unclipped and falls to the ground untie the string on the connector - use the string to pull the new connector lead to the top the engine bay Removing the strut bar does improve access to the connectors, but removal is not necessary. Remove: :: the nuts that hold the shock absorber bearing in the suspension turret x 3 pcs - (13 mm socket) :: the spring strut assembly from the vehicle Tip: Loosen, but leave 1 x nut closest to the fender attached to the strut bearing. This will stop the strut falling down awkwardly. When you’re ready to remove the strut assembly from the vehicle reach up and remove the last 13 mm nut. Carefully manoeuvre the strut assembly out of the wheel well, taking care to avoid the CV boot, brake hoses, and sensor wires. Ensure the steering knuckle doesn't flop around. Spring strut disassembly :: Pry off the plastic cap from the top of the spring strut assembly Removing the strut bearing Secure the spring strut in a vise (or lay the spring strut assembly down on a clear & flat surface. Remove: - the nut for the shock absorber bearing (21 mm ring spanner & T50 Torx) - the washer - the strut bearing Removing the spring - Attach your spring compressors Tip: Only use good quality spring compressors Make sure the spring compressors are spaced at 180 degrees from each other Ensure the spring compressor thread is well lubricated Tighten the spring compressors evenly Having an impact wrench saves time, but a ratchet will do the job You have compressed the spring enough when: - you can move the spring seat - the spring has lifted off the shock absorber Remove: - the cross shaped fixing nut on the shock absorber (T50 Torx as a counter hold and hammer will undo the cross nut) - the rubber spring seat - the spring - the rubber bump stop and dust boot (gaiter) Check that the strut bearing plate, the spring seat, the rubber bump stop with boot are undamaged. Replace if necessary. Spring strut re-assembly Remove the ABS sensor cable clip from the old shock absorber. - note the ABS sensor cable clip is secured by 2 x expanding plastic rivets (image from Howards Volvo site) - carefully punch out the plastic center pins using the 2 mm punch - retain both plastic center pins - remove the cable clip from the old shock absorber and transfer to the new one - insert the plastic center pins and tap in until they are flush Tip: If you break the expanding plastic rivets, you can use pop rivets to fix the cable clip to the new strut Installing the spring Compress the new spring to a length of approx. 260 mm (if you've compressed the spring sufficiently for disassembly – you should be OK) Install: - the bump stop with the boot - the spring - the upper spring seat - the fixing nut [cross nut] - tighten the cross nut to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: Make sure the spring is seated correctly in the shock absorber and upper spring seat If you don’t have the special cross nut socket (e.g. ipd version) - apply Loctite to the cross nut - use the Torx T50 as a counter hold - tighten the nut securely using either; a small ring spanner, channel locks pipe wrench or even a few ‘love taps’ with a hammer If you have installed spring seat correctly and torqued the cross nut properly you won’t have to re-tighten the cross nut later on Installing the shock absorber bearing Install: - the strut bearing [support plate] - the washer - the top nut and tighten to 70 Nm (52 ft.lbs) Tip: To ensure the right torque, use a 22 mm crowfoot spanner on your torque wrench and Torx T50 as a counter hold Otherwise tighten with a 22 mm ring spanner and Torx T50 Re-installing the spring strut - Fit the spring strut in the suspension turret with new nuts x 3 pcs - Tighten to 25 Nm (19 ft.lbs) - Pull up the shock absorber’s connector lead in the engine compartment and plug in the connector by the suspension turret. (this is where the string comes in handy) Fit the 4C connector lead in the clips Install the spring strut on the stub axle. Use new bolts and new nuts. Tip: When re-installing the strut assembly, it’s easier to install, but don’t fully tighten, the 3 x nuts in the suspension turret – as this allows some wriggle room when installing the steering knuckle bolts. If you have polyurethane LCA bushings fitted (especially the rear LCA bushings) you may require extra force to lever the control arm down to make room for the strut. This can be challenging with one person. To make life easier: - Protect the CV boot with a thick cloth or plastic soda bottle - Using the G clamp, fix the piece of wood to the control arm as shown below - You can then use your foot to force the control arm down whilst connecting the steering knuckle to the strut - Jiggle the control arm and strut whilst inserting the bolts Adjust the spring strut and stub axle to the measured value. Note! Ensure that measurement is performed at same points as when removing. Tip: Tighten the strut bolts snugly, but do not fully tighten Use vernier callipers to check the measurement, or use the Allen key method Tighten the screws to 105 Nm (75 ft.lbs) and further angle tighten 60 degrees Final re-installation Install: :: the position sensor - the bolt for the position sensor (10mm socket) - tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) :: the anti-roll bar link to the spring strut - re-install the nut (18mm ring spanner & T40 Torx) - tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft.lbs) :: the ABS sensor - re-install the bolt (10mm socket) - tighten the ABS sensor bolt to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs) Note! Ensure that the ABS sensor seat in the stub axle is absolutely clean. :: the road wheel - re-install the lug nuts (19 mm socket) - tighten to 140 Nm (103 ft.lbs) Lower the car to the ground and perform a SUM calibration. Also get a wheel alignment after SUM calibration. That’s it! If I can do it, so can you. Cheers, Trent Front Strut.pdf
  3. 2 points
    NChoy

    P80 AWD Rear Suspension Bushings

    Hey Will... remember those mystery upper LCA bushings that we couldn't find in poly? Well, look what I found! You can get them here: http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=760-960-series-multilink-mk1-pu-bushings-rear-suspension-prt
  4. 2 points
    Well my son's S40 made it through emission testing today, woo hoo!
  5. 2 points
    flyfishing3

    1998 V70R Mechanics Special $300 obo

    Told you I alerted the right people.
  6. 1 point
    glm409

    How to remove airbox to service MAF sensor

    It is T25. I bought this set from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUCONNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 GLM
  7. 1 point
    glm409

    How to remove airbox to service MAF sensor

    Use a security Torx bit to remove the two torx screws holding the MAF unit and spray that with the CRC cleaner (That's what I do). Much easier than pulling everything apart. GLM
  8. 1 point
    UGETIT

    My new 05 V70 R AWD

    I am new here and thought I would post a picture.
  9. 1 point
    Ninjasixsixsix

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Did a battery re-localisation to the trunk and upgraded to Optima yellow top battery and up-sized the cables.
  10. 1 point
    welditup

    hy35 s40 almost complete!

    She runs! Started it up for the first time since the motor swap and everything went alright
  11. 1 point
    welditup

    Manifold build in progress

    Wastegate is mounted up and ready for plumbing. https://postimg.org/image/luekeo00d/
  12. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    Volvo Owners in Atlanta?

    I know a guy who knows a guy
  13. 1 point
    Diio

    MBC install?????

    You shuld not use MBC on a S40 .. you will break the eninge in a short while. better to just get a chip tune saber and more hp increse!
  14. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    low boost

    5.5psi is stock wastegate pressure. I know this because there used to be an MBC thread and I can attest to the numbers. When setting the MBC with the TCV bypassed you start with the MBC all the way open which will effectively default to wastegate pressure. Then montitoring with an actual boost gauge and not some obd Bluetooth BS gradually close the MBC till desired boost is achieved. with the MBC open boost would build to 5.5psi (3psi lower than stock) and the wastegate would open. in short get a boost gauge hooked up, bypass your TCV and do some 3rd gear pulls. If you see less than 5.5psi your wastegate is the issue.
  15. 1 point
    volvotosor

    My V70R awd 99'

    Yes there are beautiful roads here, I have done it for you
  16. 1 point
    ConorV70R

    My V70R awd 99'

    man i would love a set of those Ohlins here in the states. Nice R!
  17. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    ARD lightweight CRANK PULLEY

    Dude we already covered this on VS, I'm ol dirty noodle btw, this thing is a useless gimmick, especially for a barely modified car like yours, I got it for free to do a review, pretty much the only reason it's on the car, spend your $ elsewhere
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    e30evolution

    What should my asking price be

    Looking to potentially sell my 2005 v70r and wondering what it would sell for. There are absolutely no issues with the vehicle, and wont need anything beside normal oil services for at least the next 20k miles. Thinking of selling because I am moving out of the country only to come back for a few weeks at a time. I would be able to store the car and use it, but there are plenty of other cars I would be able to use for the times that I do return. 2005 v70r with 6 speed manual in metalic black paint paint is 8/10 interior is 9/10 mechanical is 9/10 I am the second owner and have had it since 2012 Vehicle came with service records and looked to have regular service I got the car with 97k on it and now it has 138k 137- alarm siren (has battery inside that failed) replace with new OEM. new fog lamps and RR lower tail lamp, one fog lamp lense was broken, and the tail lamp had a small crack and the LED on the side had stopped working -front sway bar end links 135- oil service/inspection 130- oil service/insp -warranty defective tires replaced with Bridgestone tires so3 pole position -front struts (OEM) with mounts perches and bearings -lower control arms and ball joints -upper engine torque mount and strut brace mounts -front brake pads and rotors Textar performance pads and coated rotors -brake fluid flush -angle gear oil -transmission oil -rear diff fluid -Haldex filter and service 125-oil service/insp -leather re-dye 120-oil service/insp -timing belt service with water pump and cooling system flush -drivebelt -spark plugs 115-oil service/insp 110-oil service/insp -new IPD stainless steel oval 3" exhaust Turbo back with high flow catalytic converter -bluepower OEM style bluetooth/nav unit 105-oil service/insp -ryan snider PDR (3 or 4 small door dings) -new 18" wheels with bridgestone tires -volvo cross bars with 3 bike carriers
  20. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Nvm you're all dead to me
  21. 1 point
    sks40

    Hello again!

    Mine is fwd auto T5. I see come manuals come up on Craig's List occasionally. I tried to jump on one that was a T5, manual, awd, prem sound, dynamic sport pkg, red with blk interior. I think it had a little over 100K miles for $5K. I was too late. I was going to buy that one and give mine to my son. I have not had any major problems. Most were fixed with software. The control arm bushings and the strut bearings seem to go quickly. If you buy from FCP Euro you get a lifetime warranty on the parts. I am about to take advantage of it for my LCA's because one of the ball joint boots had split and the grease had been gone long enough for the joint to get all rusty. I could do the ball joint but it is just as easy to replace the LCA and I get the replacement for free. The motor and transmission have been rock solid even with 190K miles. Besides oil changes, I had the timing belt replaced at 110K and trans fluid changed at 80K. I am also fixing my alarm system. I think it is just the internal battery which I am going to make my own battery pack to replace. My headliner also fell and I recovered it, though I was in a hurry and didn't do as good a job as I would have liked (has a few wrinkles). Some folks have issues with sunroof drains clogging. I haven't but I made sure they were clean when I pulled the headliner panel out. Once I do the LCA and get new tires, it should ride like new. There is still a lot of performance upgrades available. I think the popularity of the C30 helped a lot. Some parts are shared with the Ford Focus and Mazda 3 which helps also. It seems like the market has dried up for the S/V40. I haven't done too much performance wise. I do have an upgraded rear sway bar from IPD, Koni Yellow shocks/struts, a K&N drop-in filter and an ECU spacer (this was something found on the previous Focus RS in Europe that used the same Volvo 2.5L but tuned up a bit). The ECU mounts to the air-box and has cooling fins that protrude into the air flow. The spacer moves the ECU out a little for better air flow but is still safe for the ECU. The factory air box actually flows pretty good. Most go with a CAI for sound.
  22. 1 point
    sks40

    Hello again!

    I really like my V50 T5. Your V40 looks nice. I almost bought an '04 V40 after my '02 S40 got totaled but went for an '05 V50 instead. The V50 is a nice step-up in just about every way. If you are into audio, look for one with the Premium Sound system. You can easily spot it because it has the center speaker in the dash. It has very good SQ. Otherwise, these cars are a pita to upgrade the sound system. The 08 and up have iPod input and mp3 capability. Earlier models, you can add a Denison Gateway 500, FM modulator or FM transmitter to get this capability. Stan
  23. 1 point
    sks40

    I'm Back - 2001 S40

    Weird... I see it remembered my name and profile info. A real shame loosing the old threads. It was such a valuable resource for the S/V40 community.
  24. 1 point
    Bellerophon

    2005 V70R hood

    The good news (should you be inclined to visit a junk-yard), is that your local Pick-N-Pull has five S60s with the matching part. http://bit.ly/2aeBRS6 The bad news... none are titanium grey. Although, at $47.99, it shouldn't matter much.
  25. 1 point
    TEEKAY

    What did you do your X40 today?

    Found a ratchet / socket combo that fit just right for the front sway bar bushings. Got one in easy, the other was seized or in there real good. I'll have to revisit it with one of those fancy sockets for rounded bolt heads.
  26. 1 point
    TacklaNHL

    04 V70R probably totaled

    Just went through this on my 2007 S60R in February... the fight with insurance....it will not be pretty... Here's how it will go down and things you'll want to be aware of... 1. Check the blue-book values (NADA, and Kelly) and this will give you an idea of what insurance is going to offer you (minus your deductible, unless they have this guy's insurance info and will waive that for you.) 2. Collect your receipts for anything NON-MAINTENANCE, within the last 1 year period... this will be covered (it's not $ for $, though it will help you increase what they offer.) 3. As far as comparables.... be sure you're looking INSIDE OF YOUR STATE. I wasted time finding comparables... and since they weren't in my State, i had to start over. 4. Even with the comparables... you won't be pleased with how they handle it because they factor in "retail price" and the "seller's profit". So don't go thinking that the comparables "set the market value", cause insurance doesn't work with common logic. 5. Keep fighting. They'll slowly increase their offer, until they won't anymore. Then... if it's still not enough... you hire YOUR OWN appraiser. It's around $400 (the common price now for those services) and they provide the insurance company with a full 16-page appraisal. That $400 that I spent.... got them to come up on the price for the total loss by an additional $2300... so it's worth it. 6. After it's all said and done, the car may be around $1000 to buy it back (the price you've appraised and fought for, minus $1000.) Do it. Buy it back. You can double that money easily to most any Volvo indy shops locally, or online, or part it out yourself.
  27. 1 point
    ConorV70R

    04 V70R probably totaled

    if it's a manual lots of people are usually looking for a good M66 (myself included)
  28. 1 point
    flyfishing3

    04 V70R probably totaled

    pegs are always easy to sell if in good condition, sub woofer if you have on. third row is always bank seat skins if in good shape. esp. the driver side. HU has value. than motor etc.
  29. 1 point
    NEU

    Educate me on a v40

    Thanks guys. Took a couple cars for a test drive this weekend and wanted to keep it in the Volvo family but didn't want to buy another project. Sooooo, I pulled the trigger on a '11 c30 R design. It's a blast!
  30. 1 point
    Ninjasixsixsix

    What did you do your X40 today?

    all plastic trim, hazard switch, dash, seats,floor, belts, nuts and bolts, doors panels, fuel pressure regulator, camshaft sensor, throttle body sensor for 50$ that's a steal LOL
  31. 1 point
    V70Rescue

    -2 reputation?

    Can someone explain why I have a -2 reputation on my status?
  32. 1 point
    V70Rescue

    -2 reputation?

    If this is something derogatory I think I deserve to know why
  33. 1 point
    depends on what you have... Manual vs Auto - Manual seems to command a higher price nowadays Exterior/Interior - Some people love Red... some people love sonic blue... some people love nordkap and some people love atacama. swedespeed's for sale section has a non-affiliated listing thread... where a bunch of guys talk about buying Rs... may want to ask there. good luck!
  34. 1 point
    TEEKAY

    What did you do your X40 today?

    passed inspection.
  35. 1 point
    flyfishing3

    What did you do your X40 today?

    You going to Carlisle? There might be somebody attending that has lots of the blue.
  36. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    If you're willing to risk the $ loss order it on mercado(Mexican eBay) that's how I did it, I say risk because I guess there's a chance it could be seized, got 4 cans for $80 shipped
  37. 1 point
    NEU

    Suspension Code

    For stock ride you want the Nivos with 27 as the ending numbers, 25 is the Euro lowered version and 26 is the taller version for the XC.
  38. 1 point
    1clean00

    What did you do your X40 today?

    It definitely requires less pedal, but still not where i want them to be. This is only because the brakes at this point are physically worn and the calipers are working a little harder than they should need to provide full clamping force. I'm hoping that with the new rotors and pads it's even better. Best $ spent on the job was the one man bleed hose from Napa. Bled the brakes probably three times to clear out all the old fluid and it worked like a champ.
  39. 1 point
    TEEKAY

    What did you do your X40 today?

    The U bend ic hose will fit and so will the hose on the turbo. The one at the bottom of the intercooler did not fit for me.
  40. 1 point
    Phixion

    BBS Crater Wheels 16x7

    Maybe because there's lots of S40's in CA, but I see Craters quite often. I tend recall that I see them more often on the V40's??
  41. 1 point
    xcites40

    BBS Crater Wheels 16x7

    They come standard on LSE package.
  42. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    BBS Crater Wheels 16x7

    Sell ya mine, I'm in NY
  43. 1 point
    TEEKAY

    What did you do your X40 today?

  44. 1 point
    flyfishing3

    2000 s40 upgrades?

    Kristian is the man. Totally a stand up guy and he owns snabb
  45. 1 point
    33647_1450202331

    What did you do your X40 today?

    I'm buying stock in Elmer's.... You guys 😔
  46. 1 point
    xcites40

    Why is Cold Air Intake So Loud on S/V40?

    The force is strong with the Swedish
  47. 1 point
    those FPS Fuel Pressure sensors should be replaced every 100K kms. I hope they are making better ones now. I was getting very unnerving "flat spots" on the highway, and was also getting gaps coming off first gear (6 spd) when just starting out. I googled diagnosed it as the FPS, brought it too a shop, they found a DTC high fuel rail pressure, but not active. Replaced the part, new plugs too, and she runs great, including no more drop after first - second shift. I couldn't wait need the car so had to fork over $250 for the part + labor etc.
  48. 1 point
    lookforjoe

    Let the games begin...

    Radiator looks good, does it have an extra row, or stock? Nick, couple of things - you really want the BOV right off the TB pipe - that extension looks like it may **** with your airflow in a bad way. I'd go with rigid lines for the oil cooler, with as little flex sections as possible. Is that moved IC port the outlet or the inlet? It looks like you've restricted it a fair bit by moving it.
  49. 1 point
    EVL WAGN

    Let the games begin...

    As always...killer work brutha!
  50. 1 point
    NChoy

    Let the games begin...

    Here's the pics: (All aluminum work done by Mac's Radiator on SE Foster... special thanks to Mike and Ellie for their hard work) Custom all-aluminum radiator... Closer shot of some detail (this is the OEM core, with aluminum end tanks. All mounting points are exactly like OEM... Modified the top port on the intercooler. Moved to OEM location (more toward center), and opened up to 2.5"... I have to take it back on Tuesday because they didn't make the port 3" long like I asked them to... it's only 1.5" long. DAMMIT!!! Modified 740 Turbo oil cooler... Close up of welded bungs... This cooler will mount between the a/c condenser and the bumper support. Here it is placed for fitment before swapping the bungs... Using Russell AN fittings and Aeroquip high-pressure hydraulic hose, tied into welded bungs on the OEM oil cooler hard lines, like so... Here's a rough idea of where the Greddy 50mm BOV mounts... it may change ever so slightly in orientation and location, but you get the idea: More later!