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  3. Bilstein is a good OEM replacement and they stand by their warranty. If you're not looking to push a performance envelope, they're fine. I had them for a number of years on all four corners. Kept them for emergency replacements - complete struts - when I put the KWs in. KW is the way to go for a performance option. There is an issue with the strut bearings now tho. You can no longer get the correct (200 S40) strut bearings that accommodate the KW front struts. the 2000 s40 strut bearings were used on these - andf you shouldn't use the 2001 + strut bearings.
  4. There's a lot of people recommending Bilstein when it comes to comfort, fit and finish. However, I've seen it always compared to Koni
  5. Earlier
  6. Stopped in to see how y'all were doin'. I see there's a few hard core folks left. Good to see those who have kept the faith. I graduated to an XC60, so I'm an outcast now.... but those 6 cylinders are like crack.........
  7. will check that out
  8. were you able to fix this issue?
  9. Just to be clear there were two kinds of clunks that were gone after installation of the torque mount. One seemed to be “suspension” related; it occurred running over road bumps and holes at any speed. This was due I now think to the engine not being strongly enough supported by the torque mount. The second clunk was related to gear shifts through P, N, R, D when stopped and after the car was warmed up. These were clutch slippage (shudder) in the trannie. I think this occurred only when the car was warmed up because engine heat softened the rubber bushings. When the ambient temperatures were cold, the bushings were firmed up just enough to overcome clutch slippage. At speed the trannie ran fine. So if you’ve got these two problems a new torque mount is the way to go. In addition to degraded bushing I think there was some metal fatigue in the mount framework. The IPD mount is solid, not just a metal frame. Looking back at my history driving the car I think the failing torque mount has been affecting the car’s performance for some years now. It would not be unwise to replace the mount before it gets to this stage, say at about 75k.
  10. New member)). Hello!
  11. Very slight additional vibration. I’m actually shocked at the overall performance improvement. Handling, ride, acceleration all conspicuously better. It’s like night and day It got rid of a big clunk too.
  12. will check that out
  13. Nice ride
  14. Agreed, but on the other hand, those two torque mounts have two roles; isolating engine vibrations from the chassis and preventing the engine from rotating. Over 10 years and 100k miles from rubber bushings seem pretty reasonable and they are easy to replace. I wish the control arm bushings were that easy to replace. Mine all failed at about 110k miles. Are you getting much in terms of vibration with the poly transmission torque mount? I installed Pro Part Sweden's, which got rid of the clunk but has the side effect of increased vibration. GLM
  15. I have a 2007 V70R (with 114k) which began to have this problem late this summer. Specifically after about 30 minutes of driving, after being stopped, the transmission (Geartronic 6 speed) would thunk when shifted from P, N, R, D. Afterwards, sometimes when the car shifted from 2nd to 3rd, or from 3rd down to 2nd (when slowing and braking), the shift would be harsh and clunking. But both these problems were sporadic. Ninety-nine % of the time the trannie was just fine. After reading many posts, suggesting everything from new trannie, fluid flush, software upgrade, coolant contamination, failing valve bodies, etc., I decided replacing that the lower transmission torque mount, a known defect, was the place to start. It was the cheapest fix. I had already replaced the upper engine mount, another known defect. If the upper engine mounts were under-engineered, then likely so was the lower transmission torque mount. As the car needed to be warmed up before the problems occurred, this could be explained by the fact that the torque mount’s rubber bushings softened up with heat from the engine. I ordered IPD’s HD Billet & Polyurethane Transmission Torque Mount and had my mechanic install it. WOW what an immediate difference! The original torque mount was a mess. It’s just a metal frame. The bushings were seriously degraded. About 95% of the front-end clunckiness was gone: I had been thinking I was overdue for serious suspension work. (It’s just possible that this fixed also resolved an intermittent “Chassis Service Settings” warning light I had been getting.) I am not an engineer, or even a mechanic, but it’s just common sense that if the transmission housing is not firmly anchored to the subframe, it’s not going to do its job very well. On the editorial side, it seems ridiculous that Volvo is going to all the expense of setting up a 4C suspension system, with all the sensors and so on, and then so seriously under-designing something as fundamental as the torque and engine mounts. It’s like building a mansion on a sand foundation.
  16. awesome shots! looks great
  17. how's everything going? any new updates on this build?
  18. Welcome - pics please!
  19. Interested in your TME SPRINGS. Still available?
  20. Correction: Please RSVP by Friday, November 17, 2017 for the Holiday Party. Take care, volvie!
  21. Hi Everyone,Hope you are well!Mark you calendars now to celebrate the holidays with us on November 26th at the California Automobile Museum!Full Event Details:A message from Ken Rothaus, SacVCOA Planning Committee:You are invited to join us for the Sac Volvo Club Holiday Party and check-out our Car Club Cavalcade Display at the California Automobile Museum on Sunday, November 26, 2017 from 2:00P – 7:00P.The California Automobile Museum celebrates the holidays with a Tree Trimming Party and Potluck Dinner on the first Sunday after Thanksgiving. I will provide the tree, you provide the trimmings (such as a postcard sized photo of your Volvo with a hole punched into it to hang on the tree) and bring one cold side dish, salad, or dessert potluck item to share! The museum will provide the main course (smoked or barbecued chicken), complimentary coffee, and a cash bar.The Sac Volvo Club has also been selected for the California Automobile Museum Car Club Cavalcade Display for the month of November. The display showcases the early history of Volvo in America with six Sac Volvo Club member vehicles from a 544 to a 144 and can be viewed the entire month of November during normal Museum hours.Please RSVP by Saturday, November 17, 2017 for the Holiday Party.See you there rain or shine! Meeting Location: California Automobile Museum2200 Front StreetSacramento, CA 95818(916) Google Map (will open in new tab/window) Date: Sunday, November 26, 2017 Time: 2:00P - 7:00P Cost: TBD by potluck & tree trimming choices, but you will need to cover your own costs. Notes: Items to bring: -Tree trimmings (such as a postcard sized photo of your Volvo with a hole punched into it to hang on the tree) -One cold side dish, salad, or dessert potluck item to share Event Flyer: SacVCOAFlyerHolidayParty-Cavalcade_November17 (Google Doc at Google Drive): Preview available on the website here: To RSVP: -Reply to this post -Contact Us: -Or, RSVP at the Facebook Event Post: And, your message will be forwarded to Ken Rothaus, Event Coordinator Looking forward to seeing you all on November 26th! Take care, volvie!
  22. I am looking to add a trailer hitch to my V70 R for hauling small motorcycle trailer and bicycles. Any info or suggestions would be welcomed. BlueStrada
  23. Hello from Charlotte, NC. Just picked up my 05 V70 R last week and really enjoying it. Sold my XC 70 from 03 that was a terrific car and just bumped into the R car. Had many Volvos and Saabs too for that matter, but this is first R. I did just take away the IPD cat back exhaust and replace it with OE system. Just too noisy to live with every day for me. being in the Motorcycle Industry... I have a penchant for quiet vehicles. Spent 40 years in the Motorsports Industry... mostly motorcycles and operate a boutique touring company from Charlotte. for visitors to our great Blue ridge and Smoky Mountain roads. I've owned Volvos from PV 544 to 1800ES and more. Hope to meet up with other R owners sometime in the future.
  24. 187,950 miles on the R and she's still a delight to own and drive. In some ways, the older she gets, the more fun having her becomes.
  25. Volvo wanted $5.95AU...local mechanic gave me wrong globe(screw in) and went back and got right one which is plug in as per this clip..$1.00AU...seems to have same brightness!
  26. Hello gentlemen. In my S60R B5254T4 the cylinder liner broke. I want to use a B5234T3 block with a 81mm sleeve and a cylinder head from my B5254T4 with all the accessories. I searched for detailed information on the subject but nothing concrete I found. I heard that I can use my connecting rod and crankshaft 2.5T to increase the stroke from 90mm to 93.2 and the capacity to 2.4L. Which pistons do I use, with 2.3L? Please tell me about this assembly of 2.3 T5 + B5254T4 block in the best configuration. I am from Poland, I was thinking about using the recommended block B5244T5, but in my region 2.3T5 engine is more than half cheaper so I would like to build a motor on this block
  27. So just clocked 240K and thought things running well finally and right rear number plate bulb gone! Found this you tube video to replace: Also testing my Aircon with new Fan resistor seems to only hit 4 and not as cold when switch on MAX COLD.....used to be freezing and running on 5 speed(Auto)
  28. I have an 06 V70R that I'm interested in selling and have no idea what to ask for it. It's a GT with a mere 266K miles. Runs well, drives well but it's not perfect. I put a different block in it at 249K (cracked liner). The donor motor had ~150k. I reused my head because it was pressure checked, milled flat, and had a hot bath. The old head was better so I used that one. I blew up the turbo at 255k. I picked up a used one with 80k on it and put it in without having it rebuilt. I don't have a boost gauge but it is still very zippy. A few other things I done to since owning. When I pulled the transfer case I welded the sleeve. AWD still good. I just put a new A.C.condenser in it... A.C. works good. I had replaced the front 2 shocks, oil cooler, radiator, 3 inch catless CNT downpipe. I whacked the resonator. It sounds good. 1 inner tie rod end and 1 outer. It comes with an ebay DICE (which works 50% of the time). I just put in a used clockspring and did a SUM cal. Right now I'm still showing a faulted right front accelerometer sensor to put on soon. Currently I can switch 4C settings when I first start it. Shortly after driving I'll get "Chassis settings service required" which locks it into whatever mode is chosen. I need your honest opinions please.
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